The Jack's Small Engines Forum - Join Our Online Community
Reply to post

Hot!TroyBilt 01919 Generator with B & S 204412 - 0147E1 - 041028YD

Author
hemmjo
Starting Member
  • Total Posts : 8
  • Scores: 0
  • Reward points: 0
  • Joined: 2019/04/05 07:28:23
  • Status: offline
2019/04/05 08:00:34 (permalink)
0

TroyBilt 01919 Generator with B & S 204412 - 0147E1 - 041028YD

I have the above mentioned Generator, with that B & S engine.  Got it cheap years ago with a leaking carb due to bad bowl gasket. Has been running fine since that was replaced. I always run the fuel out of the carb by shutting off the fuel shutoff, before shut down. I also ALMOST always use Stabil 360 Marine fuel stabilizer.  
 
The last time I got it out to use,  it would only run with the choke ON. I had not added the stabilizer the last time I used it. I pulled the carb, cleaned and blew out the passages with air, reassembled and it ran fine.  Used it for several hours with no problems. 
 
A few weeks later, I got it out and it would not start.  Checked spark, pulled the plug, it was wet with fuel.  Then started without the choke.   But it runs as if the choke is ON. Blows a lot of smoke, like it is burning oil. If I shut the fuel off, it will clean up and run good for a few seconds just before it runs out of fuel. If I play with the fuel shutoff, I can get it to run, better but not good, by limiting the flow of fuel to the carb.  Is has 45-50 PSI compression.  Checked and set valves to 0.004-0.005.  They were very loose in excess of 0.012
 
I suspected too much oil because of the smoke, drained and refilled with 28 OZ of fresh. No change in operation.
 
Removed the carb to check the float and needle, seat. There is no adjustment for level and I find no specification for what the float level should be.  As I turn the carb upside down, with the bowl removed, the float it not level like I am used to seeing.  The side opposite the pin is much closer to the carb body.  This seems like the float is too high.  Is there supposed to be a metal seat up inside the plastic body for the needle to seat on?
 
Since I also have a small oil leak on the crankshaft, I want to repair that at this time. I have the Engine/Generator out of the frame.  I have the generator body removed, but I do not see how to remove the Armature from the engine shaft.  Does that just slide onto the engine shaft? 
 
Thanks for your input,
 
John
 
 
 
 
 

14 Replies Related Threads

    AVB
    Super Member
    • Total Posts : 1038
    • Scores: 45
    • Reward points: 0
    • Joined: 2017/06/21 16:35:48
    • Location: Elora, TN
    • Status: offline
    Re: TroyBilt 01919 Generator with B & S 204412 - 0147E1 - 041028YD 2019/04/05 10:33:33 (permalink)
    0
    Sound you have the Nikki carburetor. The float valve is spring loaded version so it soft seats and float will not be level as with a rigid needle. Also replace the bowl gasket as these are easily damaged.
    Roy
    Moderator
    • Total Posts : 695
    • Scores: 13
    • Reward points: 1
    • Joined: 2016/07/27 22:51:23
    • Location: British Columbia
    • Status: offline
    Re: TroyBilt 01919 Generator with B & S 204412 - 0147E1 - 041028YD 2019/04/05 11:31:05 (permalink)
    0
    The rotor is an interference fit on a tapered shaft. Install the long bolt but leave it a bit loose. With a screwdriver put some tension on the fan, not too much, then give the bolt a rap with a fairly heavy hammer. Don't pound on it. Alternatively you can knot a piece of starter rope and feed it in the spark plug hole. With the piston sopped against it spin the rotor with a heavy hammer and a block of hardwood. DO NOT hit the windings.
    CROSSBOLT
    Starting Member
    • Total Posts : 7
    • Scores: 0
    • Reward points: 0
    • Joined: 2019/04/04 14:50:55
    • Location: Whiteville, TN
    • Status: offline
    Re: TroyBilt 01919 Generator with B & S 204412 - 0147E1 - 041028YD 2019/04/05 18:11:00 (permalink)
    0
    Yeah, float height not right. Way too rich...
    AVB
    Super Member
    • Total Posts : 1038
    • Scores: 45
    • Reward points: 0
    • Joined: 2017/06/21 16:35:48
    • Location: Elora, TN
    • Status: offline
    Re: TroyBilt 01919 Generator with B & S 204412 - 0147E1 - 041028YD 2019/04/05 18:41:06 (permalink)
    0
    IPL show it to be a spring load float valve so will not set level as it soft seals with the valve pressure increasing as the float increases height. As said before these Nikki carburetor are bad leak when the bowl gasket is nick or otherwise damaged. Sometime it take a magifier to see the bad area of these gaskets.
    hemmjo
    Starting Member
    • Total Posts : 8
    • Scores: 0
    • Reward points: 0
    • Joined: 2019/04/05 07:28:23
    • Status: offline
    Re: TroyBilt 01919 Generator with B & S 204412 - 0147E1 - 041028YD 2019/04/05 18:55:02 (permalink)
    0
    AVB,
    I will get a new bowl gasket after I get this all apart to see what else I need.
     
    Roy,
    Is there no key on the taper between the crank and the rotor shaft?   I have not been able to find a good parts diagram that shows things like this.
     
    I tried the heavy hammer, hit it twice while holding a little tension on the fan. The bolt is too springy to transfer much shock to the crank. It is now bent from the shock of the hammer.  I have it standing upright now, with the long bolt hole filled with PB Blaster. 
     
    My plan now is to make a new bolt, with a thicker shank. The standard bolt is 8mm, the shank is actually 7.6mm while the hole in the rotor shaft is 10.7mm. That 3mm space allows the bolt to spring a lot before it transfers much force to the crankshaft.
     
    Any other thoughts are welcome.
     
    John
     
    Roy
    Moderator
    • Total Posts : 695
    • Scores: 13
    • Reward points: 1
    • Joined: 2016/07/27 22:51:23
    • Location: British Columbia
    • Status: offline
    Re: TroyBilt 01919 Generator with B & S 204412 - 0147E1 - 041028YD 2019/04/05 21:54:11 (permalink)
    0
    There is no key. I hope you didn't have the weight of the generator sitting on the flywheel while trying to remove the rotor, that defeats the whole purpose.
    AVB
    Super Member
    • Total Posts : 1038
    • Scores: 45
    • Reward points: 0
    • Joined: 2017/06/21 16:35:48
    • Location: Elora, TN
    • Status: offline
    Re: TroyBilt 01919 Generator with B & S 204412 - 0147E1 - 041028YD 2019/04/05 22:42:18 (permalink)
    0
    What I have done in the past was to remove the stator so have access to the rotor. With the retaining bolt and washer in place but a couple threads loose take a pine 2x4 place against the rotor side and using a 2-4 hand held sledge hammer strike the 2x4. The 2x4 will cushion the hammer blows as not to damage the rotor much us using brass to prevent steel shaft damage. The bolt and washer keeps the rotor from falling off once loosen from the taper of the crankshaft otherwisethe rotor will fall off and get damage.
     
    Just a thought...
     
    Also some rotor are designed to have a pusher bolt installed to remove the rotor too.
    hemmjo
    Starting Member
    • Total Posts : 8
    • Scores: 0
    • Reward points: 0
    • Joined: 2019/04/05 07:28:23
    • Status: offline
    Re: TroyBilt 01919 Generator with B & S 204412 - 0147E1 - 041028YD 2019/04/06 09:19:05 (permalink)
    0
    Roy,
    I had the whole assembly in position as it runs,  pulled a bit on the rotor to take the end play out of the crank. Then smacked the bolt.  Seems that long skinny bolt just does not transfer the hammer blow to the crank very effectively.
     
    Roy and AVB,
    Stator is off. Tried the 2 x 4, still stuck.  You place the hit to "spin" the rotor, correct?  Not on the side that would tend to bend the crank.
     
    I am not new to this kind of work, just not shy about asking before I mess this up.  I was surprised when I opened this up and did not find any means of pulling the rotor.  I was thinking there might be threads inside the end of the rotor shaft, but, no such luck. Like so many other thing, seems like it was made as a throwaway, rather than to be repairable.
     
    I will let you know how thins turn out.
    Thanks,
    John
    hemmjo
    Starting Member
    • Total Posts : 8
    • Scores: 0
    • Reward points: 0
    • Joined: 2019/04/05 07:28:23
    • Status: offline
    Re: TroyBilt 01919 Generator with B & S 204412 - 0147E1 - 041028YD 2019/04/06 17:49:34 (permalink)
    0
    GOT IT.  Thanks to everyone.  There was some rust involved that made it a bit more difficult to remove than I imagine some are.
     
    I made a tool from piece of 1/2" steel I had in my "you might need this some day" box.
    Turned one end to 0.312 x 1" long, then threaded it for 5/16 x 24 UNF thread.
    Turned the next 8" to 0.400".
    Cut it off at 9 1/2" over all length then rounded the cut end.
     
    Screwed the tool into the crank snug so the end of the thread was hitting the bottom of the hole. Then 4 solid hits with a 3 pound hammer broke the rotor loose.
     
    Now I can thread the other end of the tool to replace the original bolt that was bent trying to remove the rotor.
     
    Thanks again for the info in regard to how it was put together.
     
    John
     
    hemmjo
    Starting Member
    • Total Posts : 8
    • Scores: 0
    • Reward points: 0
    • Joined: 2019/04/05 07:28:23
    • Status: offline
    Re: TroyBilt 01919 Generator with B & S 204412 - 0147E1 - 041028YD 2019/05/31 09:24:58 (permalink)
    0
    I finally got time to get this all reassembled.  New rotor bearing in the alternator section. Valves adjusted, compression tested, carb kit, all new gaskets and needle installed.
     
    It still have the same issue, running VERY rich. WILL NOT start when choked. Starts easily with the choke OFF.  Runs very rough and smokey, like it would when choked, but cleans up and runs good as I begin to close the fuel shutoff valve. If I am able to get the fuel shut off just right, it will continue to run, obviously, any load will kill it as the throttle cannot adjust the fuel flow.
     
    I believe the float level is way too high, but I am not sure how to correct this issue. Attached are some photos of the situation.
    I am wondering if I have perhaps blown a seat out of the fuel inlet tube?
    I also do not have the "Float Bowl Spring" that is shown in the parts diagram.
     
    Thanks for your input,
     
    John
     

    Attached Image(s)

    Roy
    Moderator
    • Total Posts : 695
    • Scores: 13
    • Reward points: 1
    • Joined: 2016/07/27 22:51:23
    • Location: British Columbia
    • Status: offline
    Re: TroyBilt 01919 Generator with B & S 204412 - 0147E1 - 041028YD 2019/05/31 11:55:29 (permalink)
    0
    The spring needs to be there to hold the fuel transfer tube in place. That carb does not have a separate inlet seat.
    hemmjo
    Starting Member
    • Total Posts : 8
    • Scores: 0
    • Reward points: 0
    • Joined: 2019/04/05 07:28:23
    • Status: offline
    Re: TroyBilt 01919 Generator with B & S 204412 - 0147E1 - 041028YD 2019/05/31 12:53:50 (permalink)
    0
    Ok, New spring is on order.
     
    Getting closer I think.  Does the main jet go down into the center hole in the fuel transfer tube? I do not have that either.  If it is supposed to be there, I must have blown it out while cleaning.

    Attached Image(s)

    AVB
    Super Member
    • Total Posts : 1038
    • Scores: 45
    • Reward points: 0
    • Joined: 2017/06/21 16:35:48
    • Location: Elora, TN
    • Status: offline
    Re: TroyBilt 01919 Generator with B & S 204412 - 0147E1 - 041028YD 2019/05/31 21:45:32 (permalink)
    0
    Yes it does. And you do need to be working Nikki carbs as the retaining o-ring on the jets do get lose. I lost one jet already this year myself as it was sitting on the nozzle and I did see it until I bumped it off on to the floor which of course it disappeared.
    hemmjo
    Starting Member
    • Total Posts : 8
    • Scores: 0
    • Reward points: 0
    • Joined: 2019/04/05 07:28:23
    • Status: offline
    Re: TroyBilt 01919 Generator with B & S 204412 - 0147E1 - 041028YD 2019/06/08 12:17:20 (permalink)
    0
    To put closure on this thread in case anyone else has the same problem.
     
     Turns out the spring that goes in the float bowl to keep pressure on the plastic part has been missing ever since before I got it used 10 years ago.  Then during the most recent carb cleaning, due to leaking fuel, probably because of the missing spring, I blew the main jet out of the fuel dip tube, and did not realize it.
     
    Turns out the float level that I was concerned about is ok and normal. Not like in the old days.
     
    Thanks for the help,
    John

    Attached Image(s)

    Jump to:
    Copyright © 1994 - 2016 Jacks Small Engine & Generator Service, LLC