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TroyBilt 01919 Generator with B & S 204412 - 0147E1 - 041028YD

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hemmjo
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2019/04/05 08:00:34 (permalink)
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TroyBilt 01919 Generator with B & S 204412 - 0147E1 - 041028YD

I have the above mentioned Generator, with that B & S engine.  Got it cheap years ago with a leaking carb due to bad bowl gasket. Has been running fine since that was replaced. I always run the fuel out of the carb by shutting off the fuel shutoff, before shut down. I also ALMOST always use Stabil 360 Marine fuel stabilizer.  
 
The last time I got it out to use,  it would only run with the choke ON. I had not added the stabilizer the last time I used it. I pulled the carb, cleaned and blew out the passages with air, reassembled and it ran fine.  Used it for several hours with no problems. 
 
A few weeks later, I got it out and it would not start.  Checked spark, pulled the plug, it was wet with fuel.  Then started without the choke.   But it runs as if the choke is ON. Blows a lot of smoke, like it is burning oil. If I shut the fuel off, it will clean up and run good for a few seconds just before it runs out of fuel. If I play with the fuel shutoff, I can get it to run, better but not good, by limiting the flow of fuel to the carb.  Is has 45-50 PSI compression.  Checked and set valves to 0.004-0.005.  They were very loose in excess of 0.012
 
I suspected too much oil because of the smoke, drained and refilled with 28 OZ of fresh. No change in operation.
 
Removed the carb to check the float and needle, seat. There is no adjustment for level and I find no specification for what the float level should be.  As I turn the carb upside down, with the bowl removed, the float it not level like I am used to seeing.  The side opposite the pin is much closer to the carb body.  This seems like the float is too high.  Is there supposed to be a metal seat up inside the plastic body for the needle to seat on?
 
Since I also have a small oil leak on the crankshaft, I want to repair that at this time. I have the Engine/Generator out of the frame.  I have the generator body removed, but I do not see how to remove the Armature from the engine shaft.  Does that just slide onto the engine shaft? 
 
Thanks for your input,
 
John
 
 
 
 
 

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    AVB
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    Re: TroyBilt 01919 Generator with B & S 204412 - 0147E1 - 041028YD 2019/04/05 10:33:33 (permalink)
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    Sound you have the Nikki carburetor. The float valve is spring loaded version so it soft seats and float will not be level as with a rigid needle. Also replace the bowl gasket as these are easily damaged.
    Roy
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    Re: TroyBilt 01919 Generator with B & S 204412 - 0147E1 - 041028YD 2019/04/05 11:31:05 (permalink)
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    The rotor is an interference fit on a tapered shaft. Install the long bolt but leave it a bit loose. With a screwdriver put some tension on the fan, not too much, then give the bolt a rap with a fairly heavy hammer. Don't pound on it. Alternatively you can knot a piece of starter rope and feed it in the spark plug hole. With the piston sopped against it spin the rotor with a heavy hammer and a block of hardwood. DO NOT hit the windings.
    CROSSBOLT
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    Re: TroyBilt 01919 Generator with B & S 204412 - 0147E1 - 041028YD 2019/04/05 18:11:00 (permalink)
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    Yeah, float height not right. Way too rich...
    AVB
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    Re: TroyBilt 01919 Generator with B & S 204412 - 0147E1 - 041028YD 2019/04/05 18:41:06 (permalink)
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    IPL show it to be a spring load float valve so will not set level as it soft seals with the valve pressure increasing as the float increases height. As said before these Nikki carburetor are bad leak when the bowl gasket is nick or otherwise damaged. Sometime it take a magifier to see the bad area of these gaskets.
    hemmjo
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    Re: TroyBilt 01919 Generator with B & S 204412 - 0147E1 - 041028YD 2019/04/05 18:55:02 (permalink)
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    AVB,
    I will get a new bowl gasket after I get this all apart to see what else I need.
     
    Roy,
    Is there no key on the taper between the crank and the rotor shaft?   I have not been able to find a good parts diagram that shows things like this.
     
    I tried the heavy hammer, hit it twice while holding a little tension on the fan. The bolt is too springy to transfer much shock to the crank. It is now bent from the shock of the hammer.  I have it standing upright now, with the long bolt hole filled with PB Blaster. 
     
    My plan now is to make a new bolt, with a thicker shank. The standard bolt is 8mm, the shank is actually 7.6mm while the hole in the rotor shaft is 10.7mm. That 3mm space allows the bolt to spring a lot before it transfers much force to the crankshaft.
     
    Any other thoughts are welcome.
     
    John
     
    Roy
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    Re: TroyBilt 01919 Generator with B & S 204412 - 0147E1 - 041028YD 2019/04/05 21:54:11 (permalink)
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    There is no key. I hope you didn't have the weight of the generator sitting on the flywheel while trying to remove the rotor, that defeats the whole purpose.
    AVB
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    Re: TroyBilt 01919 Generator with B & S 204412 - 0147E1 - 041028YD 2019/04/05 22:42:18 (permalink)
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    What I have done in the past was to remove the stator so have access to the rotor. With the retaining bolt and washer in place but a couple threads loose take a pine 2x4 place against the rotor side and using a 2-4 hand held sledge hammer strike the 2x4. The 2x4 will cushion the hammer blows as not to damage the rotor much us using brass to prevent steel shaft damage. The bolt and washer keeps the rotor from falling off once loosen from the taper of the crankshaft otherwisethe rotor will fall off and get damage.
     
    Just a thought...
     
    Also some rotor are designed to have a pusher bolt installed to remove the rotor too.
    hemmjo
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    Re: TroyBilt 01919 Generator with B & S 204412 - 0147E1 - 041028YD 2019/04/06 09:19:05 (permalink)
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    Roy,
    I had the whole assembly in position as it runs,  pulled a bit on the rotor to take the end play out of the crank. Then smacked the bolt.  Seems that long skinny bolt just does not transfer the hammer blow to the crank very effectively.
     
    Roy and AVB,
    Stator is off. Tried the 2 x 4, still stuck.  You place the hit to "spin" the rotor, correct?  Not on the side that would tend to bend the crank.
     
    I am not new to this kind of work, just not shy about asking before I mess this up.  I was surprised when I opened this up and did not find any means of pulling the rotor.  I was thinking there might be threads inside the end of the rotor shaft, but, no such luck. Like so many other thing, seems like it was made as a throwaway, rather than to be repairable.
     
    I will let you know how thins turn out.
    Thanks,
    John
    hemmjo
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    Re: TroyBilt 01919 Generator with B & S 204412 - 0147E1 - 041028YD 2019/04/06 17:49:34 (permalink)
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    GOT IT.  Thanks to everyone.  There was some rust involved that made it a bit more difficult to remove than I imagine some are.
     
    I made a tool from piece of 1/2" steel I had in my "you might need this some day" box.
    Turned one end to 0.312 x 1" long, then threaded it for 5/16 x 24 UNF thread.
    Turned the next 8" to 0.400".
    Cut it off at 9 1/2" over all length then rounded the cut end.
     
    Screwed the tool into the crank snug so the end of the thread was hitting the bottom of the hole. Then 4 solid hits with a 3 pound hammer broke the rotor loose.
     
    Now I can thread the other end of the tool to replace the original bolt that was bent trying to remove the rotor.
     
    Thanks again for the info in regard to how it was put together.
     
    John
     
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