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2020/06/04 13:40:58

womanvchainsaw

Husqvarna 55 (1998) runs but chain won't turn - can only be the sprocket yes?

Brought the drum, clutch and rim sprocket to local shop for replacement and the guy says it "looks okay." Said is was the chain, but haven't changed chains. Saw turns the chain until you get a load, then the chain stops moving, but the saw still runs okay. Gave the repairman the benefit of the experience and tried again with older chain: same issue. Could this be the clutch spring? The saw has a lot of hours on it.

11 comments Leave a comment

Roy

The clutch is obviously slipping, the drum should be blue from the heat. If the spring was shot the chain would be turning at idle. Replace the clutch and drum.

2020/06/04 14:25:30

womanvchainsaw

The drum is not blue or scored, but the clutch has two blue (hot) spots on it. I honestly don't recall if the chain turns at the idle. I'll check that. I tend to run the idle high to prevent my having to restart the thing. It has a good amount of compression and I'm kind of an old lady. If the chain does turn at idle, should I just replace the chain or just replace the clutch. And if the drum isn't scored or blued, should I just replace the clutch or are the clutch and drum replaced together?

2020/06/04 21:14:03

Roy

I would replace both, it's not big bucks.

2020/06/04 22:12:09

womanvchainsaw

I'll look online for the parts. I had just replaced the drum/sprocket on my Husq 435, but it was pretty clear that was the issue. The guy at the parts store near me refused to sell me the clutch/drum/rim sprocket! I'm getting a bit weary of taking the clutch on and off.

Thanks for the insight. I hate taking things to a "technician" when seems like all they do is replace parts until it works. I can do that at home!

2020/06/04 22:30:33

AVB

womanvchainsaw
I'll look online for the parts. I had just replaced the drum/sprocket on my Husq 435, but it was pretty clear that was the issue. The guy at the parts store near me refused to sell me the clutch/drum/rim sprocket! I'm getting a bit weary of taking the clutch on and off.

Thanks for the insight. I hate taking things to a "technician" when seems like all they do is replace parts until it works. I can do that at home!

Well personally I am a shop owner and chief mechanic here. Actually I am the only one here. I don't just swap parts until things works; those technicians are called parts replacers and I wouldn't hire one ever. I have been working on equipment for over 40 yrs and 2 cycle handhelds for over 10 yrs now.

The 435 wasn't design to use the rim drive system even you can run the rim drive on it but can wear the oil pump drive gear. I just converted a 435 to rim drive because the customer was trying to run a 3/8 LP chain and bar when it had a .325 sprocket. IN order to save customer form having to buy a new chain and bar I converted the saw. The new drum doesn't fully fit the oil drive gear correctly but will work. It also required to make up a 57 DL chain instead of he 56 DL that bar states it needs.

The 55 with rim drive can be setup for either .325 or 3/8 (.375 full size) pitch. Now the chain pitch must match the rim pitch. Also your chain must be the correct gauge and pitch for the bar being used. All three components must match up.

Also the clutch should be tighten to 30-40 Nm (22.1 -29.5 ft. lbs.). Of course you will need a left hand torque wrench and a piston stop.

2020/06/05 08:16:22

womanvchainsaw

I just stuff some clean nylon rope into the cylinder for a piston stop. Thanks for the torque specs though. I was always under the impression that the clutch was self-tightening, so I usually just cinched it down. I'll check my chain numbers - the repair guy insisted it was the chain - but I've tried using old chains that had been working in the past and it does the same thing. The saw has a lot of hours - my son has already overhauled the piston/cylinder and the carburetor - so it's not out of line that the clutch would be worn out. Wish it looked more worn out and I'd have more confidence I was on the right track.

So I'll try the clutch and drum. Maybe the sprocket if these parts all come together.

Thanks for the info. I put a lot of hours on my saws and can't afford to wait months for a repair shop and then have it come back not working.

2020/06/05 10:53:05

AVB

2020/06/05 11:49:08

womanvchainsaw

Okay, trying to order my clutch from Jacks Small Engine, and been on hold for almost 30 minutes. The clutch they have for my Husqvarna 55 is different than the one on the saw. The one on the saw has the spring; looks like the one for the 55 on Jacks does not. Did my saw have the wrong clutch, or has the design been modified? What do I do?

2020/06/07 12:24:34

AVB

Is yours this one.

PN 501455403

If so according to Jack's it been superseded to this one

PN 537110502
.

If you want the original style order from Baileyonline.com

https://www.baileysonline.com/nwp-clutch-assembly-for-husqvarna-50-51-55-154-254-257-261-chainsaws-replaces-501-45-54-03-qh-50145-5403.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlJ3P5LHw6QIVla_ICh20bgPKEAYYASABEgKia_D_BwE

2020/06/07 15:12:30

womanvchainsaw

Mine is definitely the 501455403 model with the spring, complete with little 7s on it. I thought the shoes on mine would be thinner so as to confirm that this is the issue, but they look the same. Does one type work better than the other? I used to be convinced that "parts were parts" until my son overhauled this 55 - twice. The first time he bought an off-brand piston and it seized up after only a few hours. The piston from Husqvarna was way more expensive, but way better as well.

So do I go for the old or the new? The price is about the same for either.

2020/06/07 16:39:56

TownsendsFJR1300

2020/07/03 16:56:08

- OR -

Husqvarna 55 (1998) runs but chain won't turn - can only be the sprocket yes?

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