Husqvarna 435 runs super hi after carb rebuild

What are the tach readings? Most rebuilt carburetors will need re-tuning.
 
Idle speed should 2900 rpm and max no load speed should be 12500 -13000, speed limitation.

Roy
Did you remove the throttle plate? If so it may not be centered in the bore. Remove the carb, back off the idle seed adjustment then loosen and retighten the plate screw.

Something I didn't think of as I don't normally remove them.

The screw retains the inlet needle and spring which pops out and disappears in never never land under the bench if you are not careful. The pin in the centre of the diaphragm hooks into the tang on the lever. Set thew idle speed just below where the chain starts to turn when the engine is warm.

So the screw that holds the pin-lever arrangement needs to be tight, or is this an adjustment?  Making it tighter does seem to limit the movement.  The lever part has a spot for the spring.  I thought it was an indented circle that fit into the spring, but maybe I have it upside down and the spring fits into the cup of the indention.  I'd experiment by doing it both ways, but this carburetor is really a pain to install - not at all like the carburetor in the Echo saws. 
 
Good tip on the spring.  I did remove the needle to make sure it wasn't clogged, but saw the spring before I disassembled it and kept it in hand.  

Well, I reassembled the 435, and if nothing else, I'm making the same mistakes over and over as it does the same thing.  Starts fine, but idles really, really high.  I did manage to get the idle down with the idle screw, but once the chain finally stops turning, the saw doesn't idle down and quit like you'd think - or maybe just me thinking - but idles back up to supersonic in just a second or two.  Like it's revving itself of its own volition.  And it's not just the chain turning lazily;  it's screaming.  
 
So I guess I'll have to take it somewhere on Monday.  I did get a number for a guy who does repairs (the one who said it sounded like a vacuum leak), but it's a 2 1/2 hour round trip and a two-month wait.  So I'll check back with the diagnosis when I get it back.
 
Thanks for all the help.  I learn a little more every time I work on the saws, but alas, I'm told that puts me out of the trifecta of local repair shops, i.e. fuel filter, air filter and spark plug.
 
 

Thanks for the photo.  I think I have that installed okay, and it leveled with the carb body as directed.  I had removed it to check for blockage, but it was pretty clean.  
 
Sorry to bother everyone.

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You are way too lean.
 
Here are the initial settings from the service manual:
 
Replacement of the H-needle or complete carburetor
1. Carefully screw the new H-needle to the bottom and turn it anticlockwise ”A” turns.
435/e A = 2

2. Start the engine. If necessary, adjust the idling speed with the T-screw until the chain stops.
3. Adjust the H-needle to give a top speed of ”B” rpm. Use a tachometer.
435/e B = 12500 -13 000, speed limitation.
 
Note: if you are exceeding 13,000 rpm enrich the mixture to slow down to the max rpm.

4. Let the engine run at ”B” rpm ~ 1 minute, until warm.
Replacement of the L-needle
1. Screw the new L-needle to the bottom and then turn it counterclockwise ”D” turns.
435/e D = 2,5


Also your idle rpm should be 2900 rpm. Plus make you set both of the mixture needles before any other adjustment since you have reworked the carburetor.

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And the position of the saw doesn't alter the idle even a beat.  I think the saw is from 2014, but I only see the 90-11 saw on the parts list.  The part looks the same.  The saw has seen a lot of use in hot weather, and the part isn't super expensive, so I could give it a try.  

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