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2020/06/27 21:12:30
chvbob

I have an old White Yard Boss GT1050, that is giving me fits.

This is a 1974 model with a 10HP B&S motor. Updraft carburetor. It started running real crappy, and died. I replaced the plug, and checked it for spark. Spark is good. Replaced the fuel filter. No luck! I ordered a carb kit, and installed. Carb was leaking out the hole in the bottom. I researched this and followed the recommendations on the Needle jet. No luck! I have fought this for three weeks now. I ordered a new carb. It has already had the repair on the needle done to it. Same story, leaks out the hole. Checked needle, and found the repair o-ring, and a good seat pattern in it. The engine will run if I keep priming it. I took a compression check on it. 100LBS compression cold. Checked it three times. I know this is an old bugger, but I am hoping someone may have some experience with these. They are great garden tractors. Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you
Bob
21 comments Leave a comment
chvbob
I think i may have found the problem. I wondered if the intake runner might have a crack in it, so i removed it, and cleaned it. No cracks, but i also noticed that there was no gasket between the runner, and the governor bracket, and the bracket to the head. I cleaned everything good and reassembled with permatex #2, which is non hardening, and resists fuel, oil, and heat. Prime the engine, and it started as it did before. I was able to keep it running by playing with the choke. Much better than before. I then noticed that on the front of the head, there was a wet spot. I had cleaned the dirt and stuff out of the fines, but didn't use any cleaner. I cleaned it off, and dried it, and started the mower the see if it happened again. Sure enough it did. I knew then i had to pull the head. I found the gasket broken at the bolt hole where the leak was, and also a small leak at the rear. Not bad for a 46 year old machine. Gasket should arrive today. I am wondering, and will check, what the compression will be after the repair. Might be better than the 100 it had before. I will post the results after i get it together.
2020/07/09 12:12:35
TownsendsFJR1300
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2020/07/09 16:05:44
chvbob
Update on the old beast. Got the head gasket, and compared it to the original. It was the same. Installed the gasket, put the new carburetor on, Still had to prime it. Still the same problem, with the exception of the carb leaking bad. Installed the old carb, leaks just as bad. I have worked on vehicles for 55 years, and to have a single cylinder old mower defeat me is not going over well. Briggs and stratton sent me an email, because i had ask about the gasket. I gave them the model, and code. The wrote back that it didn't exist. I sent them a nice pretty picture of the numbers, and the pic of the mower manual. I think the problem is that this engine was only made one year for this old beast. In 1975 they went with a 16hp, instead of the 10hp. I am going to let my brain settle for a few days, and think some more.
2020/07/10 19:00:46
TownsendsFJR1300
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2020/07/10 19:16:35
chvbob
Yes, what i said is correct. The carb does look light the one you show.
2020/07/10 21:46:17
chvbob
From what i have read, the only way the fuel gets down into the body, is blowing by the emulsion tube. Both of mine have o-rings to seal them.
2020/07/10 21:47:49
TownsendsFJR1300
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2020/07/11 07:21:03
TownsendsFJR1300
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2020/07/11 11:38:36
chvbob
Thanks, i will take a look. Cannot picture where those would go.
 
2020/07/12 12:06:14
chvbob
Model # 243431-0656-01  code 7501021
2020/07/12 12:08:41
chvbob
You were talking on the emulsion tube that goes up through the carb. That is where they said to put the o-ring. My ubderstanding is that is brass on potmetal seat.
2020/07/12 12:11:59
TownsendsFJR1300
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2020/07/12 12:56:48
Roy
Actually it creates a seal around irregularities caused by corrosion. It was originally created to compensate for warping in fuel tanks on some small frame vertical shaft engines then some bright light discovered it worked here as well.
2020/07/12 13:36:44
chvbob
Well, i have been back on it again. I Just can't understand this thing not starting, It just won't get fuel from the carb. If i prime it, it fires right up, but dies when out of the dab of fuel i primed it with.I think i will order another carb kit just to make sure i have a matched emulsion tube, and needle. I am also going to get those sealing washers you showed instead of using o-rings. I did notice that there is two spots for fuel to get by to the body from the emulsion tube, which would require another seal. We bought another old mower with a 23HP brigs in it. Thought about just sticking that in the old Gibson. I will post later when i get the parts for the carb, and try it again. Thanks for the help.
2020/09/27 16:23:06
chvbob
well, i can't find the number of those seals you were talking about.
2020/09/27 16:33:54
AVB
Hmmm. The float needle is supposed to have one of two options solid metal needle with rubber seat if the seat area is non replaceable or rubber tip and a brass seat. Sounds someone just screwing around this area. Note there is three different needle/seat kits.
 
As for the nozzle if it is seeping the repair to take the old nozzle file or grind off most of the threads so it just slips into place. Using some fine valve grinding compound on the mating area of the nozzle polish the matching seat in the carb body by turning the nozzle as if you were installing it. It take a few times, checking each time to see how well the area is repaired.
 
 
2020/09/27 17:19:48
Roy
The emulsion tube is no longer included with the overhaul kit, it is ordered separately because of EPA regulations. The seals are p/n 4184, they only come in a pack of ten with the roll pins for the old vertical shaft carburetors.
2020/09/28 11:43:58
AVB
Roy
The emulsion tube is no longer included with the overhaul kit, it is ordered separately because of EPA regulations. The seals are p/n 4184, they only come in a pack of ten with the roll pins for the old vertical shaft carburetors.


That's why I use an after market kit like the Stens 520-630 kit which includes the nozzle.
2020/09/28 13:39:40
chvbob
Ok, started on it again. I used some fine grinding compound on the emulsion tube to seat it better on the new carburetor. Set the float so it it closed a little sooner. I also put one of those little seals on the tube. Installed, and same problem. I then got another kit, and took the old carb, and polished the tube seat. Made sure the float was set right, and installed. Started right up. I couldn't run it long enough to warm it up good, because i had to go. After shutting it down, it wasn't long, and the fuel was dripping out the bottom again. Doesn't seem to drip while running. It is almost like the float bowl needs a vent. Maybe drill a hole, and install an old ford float bowl vent rubber.(Just thinking on that one.) I will get back to it, and let it run, and adjust it. Meanwhile, the electronic ignition i installed gives it great spark, but i manually have to ground one wire to kill it. The instructions said one or the other had to go to ground. Either i install a kill switch, or find the ground on the ignition switch. All in all, it has been a step forward on this old beast. Have a merry Christmas to all.
2020/12/08 12:50:05
TheLawnmowerMan
Getting in on this a little late so forgive me if I have missed something...  If you are having problem with gas dripping from carb when the engine is sitting (like over night) Then the fix is to install/or replace the gas shutoff valve between the gas tank and the carb... Or maybe the gas tank vent is plugged???? Going way back here, I was told the B&S told all the EOM's to install shutoff valves but they refused to do it because of cost.
2020/12/21 21:00:30
chvbob
I do have a shut off on it. It runs good at this point, and i just shut off the gas when i shut it down. Had not even given the gas cap a thought. It may very well be plugged. It has been on there since 1974, so i don't see why it would be bad, (ha ha ).
 
2020/12/23 09:57:38

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