Join us now!

Username
Password
Verification
	Stay logged in

- OR -

Forgot Your Password? Forgot your Username? Haven't received registration validation E-mail?

User Control Panel Log out

Community Stats

1 day 7 days 30 days Max. View More

Birthdays

2018/07/17 10:52:21

transman05

Kawasaki Mule 2510 lean run condition

This engine is a new one to me, but an engine is an engine!
FD620D engine with 808hrs. Ranch vehicle but not abused. Hard to start, wont idle or midrange without 1/2-3/4 choke.
Done so far.......
Rebuilt card (major). Very little change! Good fuel flow from main jets
New plugs. Small amount of oil carbon on rear plug.
New fuel filter, and checked fuel flow- good
Dumped tank and added fresh gas.
Comp ck- 175# & 160# on 6 hits.
Checked for vacuum leaks- none found.
Checked all coil resistance readings- Primary a little bit high but reasonable. 7.0 and 19.2. Secondary- on spec.
BIG question here is-- Can the ignitor box go out of spec and change timing to advanced level? The engine does "kick" occasionally when starting. Is there an indicator on these engines where that can be checked?
I'm about out of ideas. HELP!

6 comments Leave a comment

AVB

Those coil readings are out specs especially if one coil's primary is 19.2 ohms when they are spec'd at 4.6 ohms max. So I said one if not both coils have failed.

As for ignitor do your ohm out of it per the service manual. Also check the pickups resistance. These should indicate if there is problem there.

2018/07/17 12:06:37

transman05

AVB thanks for the response. The readings I posted are the high and low of one coil. The A-B spec is 3.4 -4.6 and the A-C spec is 10.4-15.6. Right? My readings were 7.0 and 19.2 on one coil, 5.5 and 19.7 on the other. These readings were taken on a fairly warm engine too, considering heat creates resistance.
From your experience, you feel that these readings will create this lean run condition? And might I ask, the best way to determine the reading on the ignitor box? Not privey to manual, but only some repair help sites and my own mechanical background .
Thanks

2018/07/17 13:03:55

AVB

Here is a link to the service manual.

http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Kawasaki-Service-and-Repair-Manuals/FD620D-FD661D-KAWASAKI-SERVICE-REPAIR-MANUAL.pdf

From what you are describing about the lean out it sound either carburetor still has problems or there is an intake air leak. It is however possible with the high primary coil resistance that plug firing are delayed as the output voltage will be lower affecting when the plugs arc over.

2018/07/17 13:40:53

transman05

Thanks for the link. I'm fairly confident in my eval of the carb fuel flow and no vacuum leaks. However, If I drill and tap a vacuum port in the manifold inlet neck for a vac gauge, do you know what reading I should get? In the meantime I'll "hit the books" again. Im sure not lookin forward to changing that rear coil!! It was hard enough just getting to the terminals to test it.
Cheers.

2018/07/17 16:47:27

AVB

No idea on what the normal vacuum reading would be, never measured it.

Can't be as bad as it is to get to as some things on an ATV sometimes it take pulling motor on them. so repairs. Or as bad as the Honda V-twin on a generator I repaired back in the Spring I had to pull everything on the front of the engine including the intake just to get the carb off for cleaning.

2018/07/17 17:15:08

transman05

Agreed....Honda stationary engine carb removal and install are NOT mechanic friendly! I have a couple diff pairs of alignment studs I made to help putting it all back together.
Im taking the igniter and both coils to a Kaw shop tomorrow for testing. Hopefully we'll find the problem in one of them so I dont have to get into the pulsers.
Thanks for your help! Have a good evening.
Dan

2018/07/17 17:39:27

- OR -

Kawasaki Mule 2510 lean run condition

Comments are closed.