Powermore 420 CC stalling issue

Hi,
My first post here.
This engine has a hot stall issue. My friend had the cutoff solenoid for the carb eliminated thinking it was the problem. No joy. He asked me about it and I told him coils can get hot and cause this problem. He ordered one and I installed it for him and once again, no joy. I looked at an exploded view of the engine and see the stator assembly that the single feed wire for the coil goes to it but I'm not convinced the stator is the problem. I'm sure the stator is the alternator potion of the engine but I'm not sure if it's causing the hot no spark issue. I know in automotive there are sensors that use a magnet and they will fail when hot if the magnet is bad.
My question is:
Can the magnet on the flywheel do the same or are we looking at the stator? I have good equipment for testing automotive related things. Is there a way to test the stator using a graphing meter or scope?
I can't seem to find a service manual for this engine so I thought I would join and see what I can learn here.
Thank you very much for the time and information.
Greg (grcauto)

SRTsFZ6
Your ignition system (basic) consists of the flywheel with magnets (of course) and the ignition coil.  
 
There's one Kill wire that attaches to the coil. That shorts the coil when turned off.
You may also have a low oil shut down switch on the front of the engine.  
 
That switch can fail, it kills most of the spark at the plug.
 First, I would disconnect it and try the machine.
If that doesn't fix it, disconnect the wire attached to the coil altogether.
 
The smaller engines (weed eaters, etc), tend to have a coil that can fail when they get hot.  The larger engines (like yours), the coil either works or it doesn't.  That is if you have all the magnets attached to the flywheel.
 
As for the stator for generating electric, it has nothing to do with the engine spark. You can run the engine W/O it even attached..
 
I currently have the exact same machine (junk picked) which needed the carb cleaned, 7000 watt..
Basically a Honda cloned engine..

Hi,
I'm not sure this engine has the low oil shutoff and I doubt it would cause this type of symptom.
The spark on this machine goes from fair to lousy to non existent as it warms.
Here's what I did yesterday.
I went and had my friend run the tractor without the gas cap (to eliminate vacuum problem) and with the ground wire to the coil disconnected and it stalled after about 10 minutes. I used my spark tester set at 8K and had no spark. A few minutes later it jumped the gap with an orange spark. I hooked it back up and It did start but within a minute or two it started missing and stalled again. No spark once again. This is the same symptom it had prior to installing the new coil. The magnet seems strong but I'm not sure of it's integrity. Can these magnets lose their integrity as they get warm? I do automotive and things like crank sensors which are a hall effect sensor and use a magnet will work fine when cold and fail warm. This is usually the case when the magnets get a crack in them. The magnet seems strong and I don't see any cracks in it. I also see the magnet on the flywheel has a screw which would seem they are serviceable but I do not see any place that sells them. New flywheels don't come with that magnet installed which makes me think you use the one from your old flywheel. This leads me to think the magnets are rarely a problem. He did buy that new coil from an Amazon seller and is made in China. I found out this engine is a China clone. I'm thinking the new coil is bad.
What say you?
Thanks
Greg

Thanks for the affirmation. I will strongly suggest he buy a new coil from Jacks.
I will let you know how it goes.
Thanks again,