Timecutter issues

I recently acquired a non working timecutter 4260. I replaced the solenoid, pto switch, key switch and brake modular. If i jump the brake modular the machine functions normally (minus the safety sensors). The handle safety switches were tested and function.
The previous owner had re-wired things to jump the brake solenoid (i assume). The Seat switch functions as intended (tested w voltmeter).
So one wire (light blue) looks a little Damaged (maybe melted a little near the key switch). I inspected the wore harness and dont see any shorted wires.
I was going to replace the wire harness but didnt want to keep guessing.
If the mower works by jumping the brake modular could the wire harness still
Be fried?

Thanks!

Thanks for quick response. One clip is a little iffy! I will definitely secure it better.
I ran out of patience and ordered a new harness a few minutes ago!
There is some def modifications, such as a jumper wire which appears intended to
Jump the fuse.
If i paid for this machine id be worried. But if this costs me a few hundred to get going i will be very happy. 🤞🏼

Please post back how it goes...
 
 
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Congrates, glad you have it fixed!
 
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I just signed on to see if anyone had been dealing with this same kind of electrical issue that i have with my 74726 tinecutter....which is, I bring the brake arms in, the engine wants to die....safety stuff kicking in....   And this is not a new thing....seems like after every winter, the mower was doing the same routine with engine dies when the brake arms come in....but after running the engine for a while and continuing to futz with it (i.e., trying to fool the safety system by arms in and out quickly), it would eventually run like a top for the season.   This season, however, my routine was not working so I came to the conclusion that the brake switches were the problem, and just replaced them.   However, the first time I fired the engine up, it quit the same way it had with the old switches.   After about an hour of complaining to my neighbor about it, I tried it again, and brought the right arm in first and guess what...no engine cut out.  Brought the left arm and still running.   Did a little bit of movement....and shut it off.   Started it back up and again, it wanted to cut out when the arms came in.   But...after a little more futzing around, the engine continued to run and the mower was good to go.   Mowed for about 25 minutes and never a problem....   Any ideas on what might be really going on?

yeah, i did see the video on replacing the switches, and did replace both of them with new switches....unfortunately, the engine cut out when i brought the arms in, just like it did with the old ones....but after an hour of complaining to my neighbor and wondering what the heck to do, when i tried it the next time, there was no engine cut out when i brought the arms in....which led to the mowing session.  but at this point, i'm running scared that my problem is not really fixed....    i had called a local small engine fix-it genius and he hates electrical stuff, advised to check the toro forums and see if anyone had the silver bullet answer and fix.

Sounds like you have a bad wire somewhere.
 
I'd have someone sit on the mower, (better yet by pass the seat safety switch) and then get it to act up
pulling the arms in.  Follow the wires, especially from the side that was the worst, and poke about with a screwdriver (or such) trying to get it to work properly.  
 
Also, I've gotten MANY switches, with bad / poor contacts inside to function (like new),
with just a couple of squirts of Liquid Wrench.  It helps remove any build up /contaminants, etc.
 
Also, just because the part is new, doesn't mean it's good.  So keep that in mind.
 
I'd also un-plug, inspect / clean any/all connectors you can find. 
After cleaning, some Di-electric grease will keep moisture out and the
connector working as it should..
 
 
BTW, I have the exact same mower, (2005 model with a Briggs)