Governor Adjustment for 20 HP B&S V2

What I am reading is that it's asking you to rotate the "Governor Control Swivel", not the throttle. Rotating it fully CCW is the position it would be in at wide open throttle.

Does the link to the actual choke have like an "elongated loop"
on one end and a short zig zag on the other (that would attach to the choke itself)?
 
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Ok, the short ziggy zag part attaches to the carb choke plate (atop the carb)
 
That elongated part does NOT "attach" solidly to anything.
The elongated part SLIPS into the main bracket.  Then part of the 
main linkage has a tab that PUSHES on the elongated part of the linkage.
 
Any excess play (when activating the choke), the choke closes fully, the elongated 
part slips thru the bracket. 
 
As it might be hard to comprehend, attach the zig zag to the top of the choke plate.
You should see a slot in which the elongated part will fit into.  BTW, that elongated part
expands slightly, in that slot.   So that piece of linkage moves very, very little.. 
 
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Hummm, interesting. 
 
It's possible they made a change in models and yours "fell" into the group as Briggs ran out /changed parts..
 
 
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So a single throttle cable, no separate second cable for the choke, correct?
 
So with that said, (and I think you also mean), the throttle pulled back is idle.
Pushed forward increases the speed, eventually to approx 3,600 RPMs (WOT).
 
Pushing forward beyond that activates the choke (and WOT remains), correct?
 
Now on the speed control lever (that you push from the riding position), you may feel 
a click or slight indentation.  IF there, that's the operating, WOT notch
(so you don't go past and run the machine on choke).
 
My 18 HP Briggs single (Zero turn), throttle lever has the same actuation,
but all my linkages at the engine is different from yours.
 
Of course you can adjust the cable at the engine.  
I'd push the throttle forward, to full choke-loosen and then set the cable adjustment
to get full choke.  Lock down the cable.  There's some give and take there, you just want to make sure your getting the full range of the throttle(and full choke).  
 
 
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So a single throttle cable, no separate second cable for the choke, correct? - YES
Pushing forward beyond that activates the choke (and WOT remains), correct? - YES
I think I may have overcomplicated this by getting stuck on the one line in the manual that claims that WOT and as far as it will go are the same, which they are not. Nothing in that assembly has been changed. The only thing I need to time is the relationship between the governor shaft and the lever and I did this the way the manual says, the control swivel plate is rotated as far as it will go which includes the portion of travel pertaining to the choke. Like I said, I don't think it makes a difference, so tomorrow I will start it up and see what happens
 

Yes on both, Scott and when you look at it that way the manual is correct in its own confusing way. When the control swivel is as far as it will go the carburetor is still at WOT however with the choke engaged and that was the part that I questioned. Should the choke be included or not. I conclude: it doesn't matter, follow the manual, fire her up and see what happens. Great conversation! - Thanks y'all!
Rick

After a week and a half of freezing temps now we have nice weather again and for the last 3 days I am struggling to get my engine to run right. I started the engine and it ran fine but way too fast in idle  (2300-2800) even though the throttle control cable on the dash is all the way down in slow. I noticed that the throttle shaft is about 2 mm away from the throttle idle set screw and that is because the big governor spring is putting a light tension on the governor arm. I went ahead and made a slight adjustment to let up on the spring tension by bending the tang and now the idle speed is good. I proceeded to do the dynamic governor checking by using a tachometer and the RPM is between 1500-1600 idling and the throttle shaft is resting against the idle set screw. Then I went ahead and checked the WOT no load RPM which was between 3600-3700 rpm, which I understand is also good. So far so good, but NOT. When I move the throttle on the dash rather fast to WOT from idle the engine wants to die. It acts like I pulled the choke. Then I go quickly back to idle and the engine recovers and idles just fine. Now if I accelerate slowly, the engine will increase RPMs until it reaches WOT and runs great. The same scenarios happens if I engage the blades. But now when I put the mower in drive and start mowing the engine dies. So I went ahead and disconnected the wire link from the governor arm to the throttle shaft on the carburetor and ran the engine without the governor (in low RPMs) and everything works just fine when I manipulate the throttle manually. It responds quickly and runs good at all speeds like it's supposed to, so I know the problem is not with the carb and intakes. Now with the throttle link back installed I tried the same, manipulate the throttle manually overriding the input from the governor, same thing. Engine runs crappy and then dies. No matter if I push the throttle open or close it, the carburetor ignores it and stutters and dies. Does that make sense? And the governor shaft and arm are adjusted correctly according to my manual and conventional procedure and the 2 springs are in good order (not stretched or bent etc.)

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