Need a flywheel P/N cross reference (Briggs 21 hp Intek)

I need a new flywheel for a 21 hp Briggs model 331877 0869 G5.  This is an Intek engine for a riding mower.  The parts manual says the Flywheel is 698281.  But, every website I search says that P/N 698281 is no longer available or discontinued.  I have searched to find what P/N replaced this one, but nothing is clear.  I'm looking for guidance on how to find the correct P/N flywheel which I can purchase for my machine.  I appreciate any assistance..  Thank you..

Thanks Scott - I'll checked those out and made an offer on one..

Got the flywheel installed.  I'm at the end of a rebuild project..
 
- When this repair started, I thought I had a camshaft issue - but camshaft was perfect. (compression release spring, lobes, all good)
- The connecting rod was busted.  Had aluminum metal transfer to the crankshaft which I cleaned up.  
- Replaced piston, rings and rod. Cylinder sleeve was good. 
- Replaced the head / valve assembly with new assembly from Briggs.  That new assembly out of the box seemed all good to go so I put it on and confirmed the valve clearances.  I don't think I needed to do anything else with the valves..
- The dots on the cam / crank gears are timed.  (I wish this was easier to double check, but I'm sure they're aligned)
- Flywheel is in place with a new key in there
- I just took off the valve cover and valves seem to be moving good.  Full strokes.  
 
When I go to start it - it seems like timing is way off, or something similar to that.  While I hold the key, it fires, but there are huge back fires through the intake.  The air filter almost blows off.  It won't run.  
 
I need something else to check...

Hi Scott - Ok - when I went back out to look at the detail of the flywheel I found that my "new" flywheel had already sheared the new key.  That was suprising to me because the engine hasn't even ran yet, just the back-firing I mentioned above.  I did check the new flywheel vs. my old one and they are identical.  
 
So, then I thought the cam timing must be off.  I pulled off the sump cover and the dots are aligned.  And like you mentioned above it's not aligned to the crank key, just aligned to the little dot.
 
Something else must be wrong.  What could cause the new flywheel / key to shear immediately like it did?  I could accept if the timing was off that could cause the backfire / sheared key.  But, the timing dots are good - so??  
 
You mentioned about the coil -  I'm assuming it is correct because I haven't touched it.  Any other ideas - I'm wide open to check something else.  I appreciate your inputs..

Hi Scott!  Thanks for the advice on the flywheel torque.  Looking back I'm certain I did not have enough torque on that the first two times.  I took your advice and got it to 100 ft lbs.  That was successful and the engine ran great for about 5 minutes.  I moved the throttle up and down and the engine responded good.  I turned off the key and restarted it a few times.  All was good.  
 
I shut it off, let it sit for five minutes and went to start it again.  Now it won't start.  New battery is strong, it turns over good.  I tried some starter fluid and got it to fire, but it won't run.  I removed the spark plug and checked - the spark is good and constant.  When I turn the engine by hand it seems to have good compression.  I put in a new fuel filter and it has fuel in it so I'm assuming fuel is flowing fine.  I can't figure out what changed so fast that it started and ran good to now it won't start.  Again I'm at a spot I need something else to check...

I pulled out the solenoid.  It has a little rubber cap on the top of the plunger.  I pulled the cap off the plunger and put the solenoid back in the carb.  The machine started right up and ran good for about 10 seconds.  Then it killed again and won't restart.  I put the rubber cap back on and tried again, but it won't restart.