Just a note about those line neon spark testers. THey can give a positive indication. Here what member of a forum I manage said.
 

I just worked on a friend's Kawasaki twin. It was running on right cylinder only. Left cylinder had spark with tester inline to the installed plug. Put in new plug. Nothing changed.Even shocked me when applying plastic coated alligator clip for balance test. Grounding tester directly produced spark. But when I used clip to ground the uninstalled plug there was no spark across plug gap. Same thing on right side showed spark. I didn't have my compression gauge so we even pulled valve cover to ensure valve action was ok. So then we swapped the coils. Guess what. Left side had spark. Right side did not. My conclusion is bad coil. (Tests with kill wires off) That's with grounded uninstalled plugs. So coil is not strong enough to jump the gap. Bit puzzling since inline tester showed spark when attached to installed plug. An internally shorted plug would do that but our final testing was with new plugs on both sides. I know coil may spark to ground but not jump a gap under compression. I expect same goes for jumping gap with no compression. Just puzzled that tester showed spark IIRC on a new plug.

That is why we use an open air tester set @ a gap that 15 KV to jump the gap. It is use to test only the ignition coil and not with the spark inline.

spaceman
Interesting I haven't see one of these testing tools. Cool That would prove the coil is weak if it would not jump the gap.
I did a search and the price for the tester is not bad.

Just Google PN 19368.
 

P/N 2458445S, Jacks has stock. They also list an aftermarket module, Universal p/n 055469 but it's more money.

Thanks guys for all the help.

Well I got the motor unbolted and pushed over to the side by taking the bolts off the bottom and the PTO and muffler off and could push the motor way over against the other side. The I was able to take the blower cover off and now I can see and service the coils. Its is real dirty in there too so Im going to blow it all clean before removing the coils.
I gave the muffler a new coat of high temp paint too. Will be ordering two new coils. So Im making my way through it and its been hot here in Florida working in my garage a little at a time taking breaks. I bought a used backup mower so I can still mow around the house while I work on the Toro:) I will upload some pictures tomorrow. I can see one thing bad about having the engine down low with blower of engine on the side, it tends to suck dust into the screen area that is fine stuff going into the flywheel area. If they had a finer screen to stop more of it. You can't get  in there and clean it without taking the cover off the cowling what Im doing right now. I wish they had a way to get back into there and clean it.

.010" will be good. Lay a business card on the flywheel on the flywheel under the coil, loosen the screws and allow it to be sucked against the magnets, remove the card and you are golden.

Just for the heck of it I checked the gap on the coils as they are and the I could only get a .007 in the gap so they must have
moved a little over the years are were set real close.
So you have done more then I have ever done, this is my first setting the gaps so I will go with the business card idea and let the coil sit on it when the magnet pulls it in. That will be wider then what it has been looks like. I think these are the originals and never been changed.