G150 no spark - ignition coil and some other issues

Hi all, 
 
I'm totally new here but would like to pop a question ...
 
I'm currently working on an old Honda F300 tiller with a G150 motor.  When I bought it (for almost nothing) the engine ran, but it was so dirty I decided to give it a thorough clean.
Now that has been done, I have no more spark, so took off the flywheel and ignition coil, because I thought there would be a lot of debris underneath.  which was the case by the way.  Now that is all loose, I measured the coil
I see that it is an engine without breaker points, so the condensor attaches directly to the engine.
 
By measuring by multimeter I get 0,8  ohm on the primary (between anchor and cable) and 11,4 kilo-ohm on the secondary (between anchor and spark plug wire.  Am I measuring correct ? And if so, are these values acceptable for working coil ?
Are these values still acceptable for a working coil ? I can't find anything online ... The coil has an inscription that says TEC 10AC
 
Another little something was that there is a small component on the chassis with diagonal stripes on it.  I disassembled it and on the back it says CPM-00 077. Further : no brand.  It has two contacts. One of them is grounded, the other one goes to the ground switch.  I was thinking was an oil level sensor, but can't find anything going in to the engines block.
 
I attached some pictures to this post
I would be glad if someone could help me out a bit...
 
Regards, 
scoob
 
 

Hi, 
Thanks for replying !
 
I just found  the following values online ()
 

Ignition system

Spark plugNGK: B4H, BR4HS
Spark plug gap0.6-0.7 mm (0.024-0.028 in)
Spark plug cap resistance10 kΩ

Ignition coil (Transistorized magneto type)

Primary ignition coil resistance 0.9 kΩ
Secondary ignition coil resistance 6.5 kΩ
Ignition coil air gap0.3 ± 0.1 (0.012 ± 0.004)
 
Between my previous post and now I learned that the spar plug cap also has a resistor.  So I took it off and measured again: now that table tells me the primary should be 0,9 kΩ ... Seems a lot as I measured only 0,9 Ω
The secondary is 6,15 kΩ and there spark plug cap measures 5,25 kΩ
So, let's say (but I'll do some more research) that the 0,9kΩ in the table is a typo and should be 0,9 Ω, then the values of the coil seem OK and it should be working.
 
The condensor I was mentioning is the cilindrical gold-coloured part that's bolted on the coil itself. So it seems that it's grounded on the two sides (bolted to the coil and the little cable goes into the compartment  where in other types it connects to the contact breaker).  So looks a bit weird ...
 
That part with the V-stripes I mentioned still is unknown ... So any advice on that is welcome too.
EDITED : The part is identified : 
And it explains why there are no contact breaker points.  As I'm taking no risk, I ordered a new one and a new ignition coil.
 
I even ask myself why there's 2 cables coming out of the coil.  In my opinion one of them should connect to the contact breaker if there would be one. 
EDITED : See above ... The second wire connects to the ignition module.
 
I think I'm going to fix the insulation on the coil (the blue goo is rather loose) , re-assemble everything and re-test.  
EDITED :  To hell with it ... I ordered a new one :-)
 
Problem is that I don't have spare spark plug right now, and stores are closed today.  Although, I measured the spark plug, and that also seems OK concerning its resistance, but you never know ...
EDITED : It can eventually follow the coil to hell : I'll get a new one tomorrow.
New coil, ignition module and spark plug and even a V-belt costs less than a hundred all together.  Why would I take the risk of re-doing all this next year...
To be continued when the stuff arrives !
 
regards,
scOOb

Also, please respond after clicking "Open Full version" .  W/O doing that, your post is invisible and "pending the moderates approval"

Quote:   "I am aware of the kill switch option.  I’m sure the switch works,"
Did you un-plug and take the switch out of the equation?  Try just the coil, just spinning over with the plug installed/grounded.
 
 
Also, I don't know how putting a battery in the circuit is... 
-The flywheel spinning by the coil should generate the spark by itself, nothing else in the "loop"....