Everride warrior 60" wont start. Lost.

First the Kawasaki 25hp (4H721V) is not the correct engine info. It a FH721D [Spec number missing].
 
Have you checked the valves for movement and correct clearance?

Small Engine Trouble Shooting can be extremely frustrating.
 
Here is a Guide to Trouble Shooting Small Engines.
 
ENGINE CRANKS BUT WILL NOT START
Empty fuel tank.
Fuel shut off valve closed.
Fuel line clogged.
Dirt or water in fuel system.
Spark plug lead loss or disconnected.
Ignition switch or kill switch in OFF position.
Transmission not in neutral.
Spark plug failed.
Spark plug improperly gapped.
Ignition module malfunctioning.
No or low compression.
 
ENGINE STARTS BUT WILL NOT KEEP RUNNING
Fuel tank vent plugged.
Dirt or water in fuel system.
Choke cable malfunctioning.
Throttle cable malfunctioning.
Loose wires or connections that short out terminal of ignition.
Carburetor not adjusted properly.
Cylinder head gaskets malfunctioning.
Fuel pump malfunctioning.
 
ENGINE HARD TO START
Transmission not in neutral.
Drive engaged.
Deck engaged.
Loose wires or connectors.
Dirt or water in fuel system.
Clogged fuel lines.
Choke cable malfunctioning.
Throttle cable malfunctioning.
Spark plug(s) malfunctioning.
Carburetor not adjusted properly.
Valve to tappet clearance set incorrectly.
Low engine compression.
 
ENGINE WILL NOT CRANK
Transmission not in neutral/drive engaged.
Battery low or discharged, or not properly connected.
Safety interlock switch engaged, not connected properly or malfunctioning.
Loose or faulty wires or connectors.
Ignition switch not connected properly or malfunctioning.
Starter not connected properly or malfunctioning.
Starter solenoid not connected properly or malfunctioning.
Seized internal engine components.
 
ENGINE RUNS BUT MISSES
Dirt or water in fuel system.
Spark plug(s) leads loose.
Spark plug(s) not properly gapped.
Loose wires or connections that intermittently short out terminal of ignition module to ground.
Carburetor improperly adjusted.
Engine overheating.
Valve to tappet clearance set incorrectly.
Ignition module malfunctioning.
 
ENGINE WON’T IDLE
Stale fuel.
Carburetor gummed up.
Carburetor idle speed adjusting screw not set properly.
Dirt or water in fuel system.
Carburetor fuel idle adjusting screw not set properly.
Fuel tank vent plugged.
Spark plug(s) malfunctioning.
Valve to tappet clearance set incorrectly.
Low engine compression.
 
ENGINE OVERHEATS
Grass screen clogged.
Cooling fins clogged.
Shrouding clogged.
Excessive engine load.
Oil level too low.
Oil level too high.
Carburetor improperly adjusted.
Rider hood removed.
 
ENGINE LOSES POWER
Oil level too low.
Oil level too high.
Air Filter clogged or plugged.
Dirt or water in the fuel system.
Excessive engine load.
Engine overheating.
Spark plug(s) malfunctioning.
Carburetor improperly adjusted.
Low engine compression.
 
ENGINE KNOCKS
Oil level is too low.
Oil level is too high.
Wrong type of oil.
Wrong type of fuel.
Internal engine components worn or damaged.
 
ENGINE USES EXCESSIVE AMOUNTS OF OIL
Wrong type of oil.
Wrong oil viscosity.
Clogged air breather assembly.
Air breather assembly not assembled correctly.
Worn or broken piston rings.
Worn cylinder bore.
Worn valve stems.
Worn valve guides
Engine crankcase overfilled with oil.
 
ENGINE BACKFIRES
Water in the fuel.
Fuel level low.
Bad fuse.
Kill switch malfunctioning.
Safety switch malfunctioning.
Wrong fuel mixture.
Worn valves.
Choke or throttle not set correctly.
Carburetor dirty.
 

Chughes2009
Sorry for the prolonged response. Holidays have been crazy. Hope everyone had good holidays.

So I checked the valve lash. It was good. I pulled the carb apart and it was spotless. Also I tried spraying starting fluid directly into the intake. Still nothing.

As for the spec number, there is no tag on the engine cover itself. Is it stamped somewhere on the engine? I looked and couldn't find it.

Time to start from scratch again.
 
If the valve lash is fine then it is neither a valve timing, ignition timing or clogged exhaust. As when you have spark, fuel, air, and good compression at the right time it should at least hit when induced fuel is added. You said you checked the flywheel key so ignition timing should be fine.

Chughes2009
Took them out and held them bout 1/4" away from a ground. Didn't arc. Both plugs. Thinking its spark issue.
 
It had to be pretty darn close to arc to ground.
 
I'm going to replace the plugs but I doubt they're bad. I just put them in. Where should I start after plugs? The coils?

Without the plugs installed and with an insulated screw driver inserted into the coil lead to plug terminal the spark should jump the .166” 4.2 mm gap steadily. A 1/4" (.250") is way too much to jump especially if it is jumping the plug metal case as that adds as much as another .020" to .030" gap to jump. Briggs actually has a spark gap tester that is set at .166" gap.

Chughes2009
So should I try jumping it with a bolt in the lead wires?

That works as you can insulate yourself as if coil(s) are working the 12Kv or more shock can hurt.
 
Also I am going stick the Lawn World thread you created as there more of us techs over there trying to help you out.