Coleman powerhouse 8000

I'm trying to get this old generator going for someone. Model no. PM0508622, serial no. 76990125. I need a wiring diagram so I can bypass the old keyswitch and convert to toggles and pushbutton. I found the hot, ground, and solenoid wires, but there are two more I'm not sure of. One goes to a can on the carb; maybe a cutoff? The other dives into the top of the engine shroud; maybe coil power, if it even uses a coil, or kill switch?
Also need to find a replacement solenoid for the #0036079 one. Thanks for any help. Chris

Thanks Roy. If you were wiring this up with toggle switches how would you deal with the carb wire and kill wire to get it to start and stop? Is that carb unit really necessary? I found a replacement solenoid   which I'll use a momentary contact pushbutton for to crank it.
                Thanks,      Chris

I got a reply back. Powermate was partially sold out to Generac and they don't have the wiring diagram for that old generator. Basically whoever repairs one these is on their own.
 
Without my hands on the unit I can't be of any further help.

Kinda easy from here if the engine starts and run then dies when you ground the kill wire. It would means to solenoid is not hot during operation and is only engaged during shutdown. That mean you to find the 12 v wire that powers down as the unit shuts down as fuel solenoid would hold until 6-8 vdc then drops back out.
 
This how most solenoids and relays works. Takes full rated voltage initially operate the switch over but take less as a holding voltage to keep them at the switch over state...Actually a quite useful property especially with using a momentary voltage to switch a relay over and have it latchup until input line voltage is dropped. I have worked CUB Cadets that operate a relay this way to disengage the PTO in reverse then operator must cycle the PTO switch once again once moving forward again. Cub as since switch over regular switches that provide automatic disengagement and re-engagement. The problem is the regular switches have a much shorter life when compared to high current relays.

What is the model and type of the Briggs? Sounds the engine has a stator.

If it is a v-twin the numbers are incorrect, it sounds like an L-head horizontally opposed engine. One wire will definitely be the kill, there will be a second wire from the engine alternator if it has one but that wire shouldn't go to the insulated stud.

Yes, it's probably an opposed twin. Lots of tin around it. This generator has had very little if any time on it. I'm just replacing the bad keyswitch that has no key, with toggle switches and a momentary contact switch. Coming out of the engine are the following: a carb cutoff solenoid that draws back the plunger with power applied; a two into one inline connector that then goes to battery positive via the hot post on the starting solenoid; and two black wires on an insulated post threaded terminal, with a third wire taking off from that to the old keyswitch location. These last two wires I would think are for mag kill function, but when tested were already continous with ground. I took both off the insulated post and each one is still grounded. I've got all the switches mounted and wired up, so I'm really close to having it crank, start and charge, but don't know why there are two black wires instead of one, and both are grounded. No prints are still available for this unit. Any ideas? Thanks.