Inlaws bought a house with a basically new old snapper 26" snowblower. They didnt want to tinker with this so i gladly went and picked it up. Took carb off bowl was clean and needles were gummy thats all clean now but i want to replace needle seat and gaskets... the numbers on the carb 1099 G7E.. im infamous for ordering the wrong kit can you folks help me out?

Can you post the engine make and complete model # (for the engine)?
 
 
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I'll grab that and post..

Is this snow blower a tecumseh or briggs and stratton. I'm asking because, It pays to order a carb off of Amazon. With all the ethanol and water thats in the gas today unless you use Star-Tron which is a gas additive that after you pour an ounce into your gallon gas can then wait 45 minutes for it to work. If you still want to rebuild the carb and if it is a Tecemseh, you need the carb. tool that they sell it like 11.00 check the price of a new carb here---https://www.amazon.com/Carburetor-247-887001-31AS3CAD799-31AS6BCE799-Snow/dp/B0B5SQQ9XT you most likely will have to copy this link then go to amazon and type it in. This is a lot easier and cheaper

ID off the motor is HM80-155331m  Tecumseh for sure... I just need confirmation on carb... I think i'm good now.. 
 
and Thoughts on the "All-Carb" replacements? anyone have suggestions on brand for replacement that isnt all crap. 
 
I will say though the needles arent all marred up.. but there was some gooey stuff stuck to the tips.. all cleaned up pretty good.. i'm thinking a needle/seat and gasket kit and i should be okay .. 

https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/part/tecumseh/632334a 
 
I don't see a re-build kit for that carb.  That carb is an oldie (adjustable, drain valve) but goodie. 
 
If the carb isn't leaking fuel, the needle and seat are probably ok.  
To clean where the needle sits inside, I'll use a q-tip, inserted into drill motor.  Put some metal polish
on the q-tip and run it thru the opening.  You can also do this, gently, with the needle.  
 
If the carb still doesn't run correctly, and the machine is that clean, I'd pop for an OEM carb (see link).
Buying an aftermarket, Chinese knock off carb is a 50/50 shot.  Most will have issues and you can't go wrong with the OEM.
 
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Yeah .an its super clean... im out of car a d brake clean at the moment but maybe i'll just qtip what i can and put it all back together. The inlaws put gas in and it just leaked out they said... but there was nothing in bowls when i got it...

Only use carb cleaner on the metal carb body.  Brake cleaner on everything else as it's not as harsh.
 
After cleaning and re-assembling, I'd put the fuel line on(with fuel) but don't bolt to the engine.
It's much easier to see if the carb is still overflowing (especially down the throat) fuel..  
 
If it is over flowing, likely it's the needle, or seat, or leaking float itself..
 
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Thanks... can also blow on the fuel line side i think... but yeah hoping to get to it this weekend. Any idea where i should get the intake gasket... or a gasket kit of sorts. Or should i just high temp goop the intake?

Re the gasket.  Purchase some gasket paper at the auto parts store (or use material like from a cereal box).
 
With a small BALL PEEN hammer, take your gasket material and hold it tightly up against the intake manifold (can use the carb but that's easier to damage) where the carb attaches.  With the ball end of the hammer, gently hammer the gasket into the 3 holes (2 small mounts and the center). Keep tapping until the material starts punching thru.  Now tap the outside or trace and cut the outside with a scissor. 
 
You'll now have a perfect gasket.  You don't need any sealer, nor would I just use sealer...
 
*if you tap / punch just the two smaller holes first, you can put 2 bolts thru to help hold the gasket.
Then punch the center and outside edge...