What's your go-to method to handle snow?

If you have a question about your equipment, post a new thread in the Repair Q & A forum.

Hello all.  Hoping you can help me.
 
2013 Ferris mower with 28HP briggs and stratton Commercial turf v twin engine. 191 hours. 49L977 0125-G5.
 
I completed mowing 1.5 acres. Disengaged the mower deck and came back around the house and proceeded down the hill.  Heard a loud PING and then rough idle. I quickly shut it down and simultaneously verified the deck was off.  Yes. It was. It sounded like I hit something the ping was so loud. Hubby came around from back, he heard the ping.  He was able to restart it and drive it into the barn. It ran really really rough.
 
Thinking I blew a rod he removed the valve covers and all is in tact on both cylinders and manual rotationofthe flywheel shows the rockers operatinging smoothly.
 
Testing began.
1.  Remove cylinder 1 plug.  Fired it up.  Cylinder 2 is running.
2. Removed cylinder 2 plug. It turns over only like it's getting fuel but no spark. Cylinder 1 is not running.
3.Test cylinder 1 plug for spark.  No spark
4. Remove some stuff to get to the ignition coils. 
5. Remove cylinder 1 coil and ohm tested OK. For giggles and kicks we installed it in cylinder 2 and it fired up.  We took known good coil from cylinder 2 and put it in cylinder 1-no spark. End Result: both coils good.
6. Reinstall coils and  disconnect cylinder 1 kill wire.  Check for spark. Yes.
7. Recheck for spark with kill switch plugged in.   Yes spark.
 
Now I am at a loss with respect to a flow chart of testing.
 
I need help please on where to focus my efforts.
 
Many many thanks in advance
Elizabeth 
 
 
 
 

My deck cable recently broke & in attaching a new one following a You Tube video the tip broke exactly like the old one broke. I'm trying to understand what I may have been doing wrong.

I posted this thread on the "Finding Parts" forum, but this forum may be a better place for this question:
 
I have a Coleman PowerMate generator it has a B&S OHV engine.  The engine model is 115432-0081-01 and the code dates it late 1996.  I need a 715139 carburetor rebuild kit that shows as "No longer available" or is about $90 on the parts sites that supposedly have stock.  Alternatively, is there a replacement carburetor for the P/N 715317?

Hi, I have fuel leaking from a hole indicated by the attached picture, arrow in red is where the fuel is coming from. 

Hello!

I worked on Briggs and Tecumseh but it was 30 years ago,
so I'm lost.
I bought a carburetor kit for a Troy-bilt LTX-1842 online.

It has a Briggs 16.5 HP I/C engine (331877-0036 G1)

It runs good and mows good but was running hot and the carburetor
Was dropping fuel, so I bought a new one.

I removed the (black intake tubes?) bolts from the engine, removing the
Choke and linkage wire. Loosened the carb mounting bolts and
The carburetor was free.

I put the mounting bolts in the new one, but now the bolts are too
Short. I checked the old carburetor. The bolts are too short
To go from one end of the carburetor to the other, much less
Through the intake system, so now I cannot reattach the new carburetor.

I checked online and no one has ever had issues with these bolts
shrinking before, and admit I've never had luck with repairs,
So I would greatly appreciate any help.
I can pay or offer video or photos if helpful.

I literally just need the carburetor and the two plastic tubes
On either side reattached.

Thank you 🙏🙏

I have a john deere zero turn that I can’t figure out the problem.
initially the problem was after about 20 minutes of mowing the mower would lose power sputter and eventually die. Sometimess run for another five minutes.
I have replaced the fuel pump, carburetor, fuel filter and vent tube from the valve cover. All new. Before this I replaced air filter and spark plugs.
It seems to be running better except surging. Idle up to near full speed.
What am I missing?
Thanks for any help.