I need a new flywheel for a 21 hp Briggs model 331877 0869 G5.  This is an Intek engine for a riding mower.  The parts manual says the Flywheel is 698281.  But, every website I search says that P/N 698281 is no longer available or discontinued.  I have searched to find what P/N replaced this one, but nothing is clear.  I'm looking for guidance on how to find the correct P/N flywheel which I can purchase for my machine.  I appreciate any assistance..  Thank you..

Seems there's several used ones on E Bay:
 
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=698281&_sacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p4432023.m570.l1313 
 
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Thanks Scott - I'll checked those out and made an offer on one..

Plz post back how it goes.... :)
 
 
 
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Got the flywheel installed.  I'm at the end of a rebuild project..
 
- When this repair started, I thought I had a camshaft issue - but camshaft was perfect. (compression release spring, lobes, all good)
- The connecting rod was busted.  Had aluminum metal transfer to the crankshaft which I cleaned up.  
- Replaced piston, rings and rod. Cylinder sleeve was good. 
- Replaced the head / valve assembly with new assembly from Briggs.  That new assembly out of the box seemed all good to go so I put it on and confirmed the valve clearances.  I don't think I needed to do anything else with the valves..
- The dots on the cam / crank gears are timed.  (I wish this was easier to double check, but I'm sure they're aligned)
- Flywheel is in place with a new key in there
- I just took off the valve cover and valves seem to be moving good.  Full strokes.  
 
When I go to start it - it seems like timing is way off, or something similar to that.  While I hold the key, it fires, but there are huge back fires through the intake.  The air filter almost blows off.  It won't run.  
 
I need something else to check...

First, did you compare where the "key to magnet placement" is VS the new part??
IE: For instance, the  key at 12 o'clock, magnet at 3 o'clock.. Both are identical ?
 
 
If, above is exact, it sounds like the timing is off.  
 
First, is the coil on the correct way?  If upside down, it won't run right.
 
Second, I suspect the cam dot to crankshaft dots are off.  Sometimes the dots are 
SUPER SMALL and easily over looked.  Just removing the sump cover can allow you 
to double check...   Don't use the squarish part of the crankshaft keyed GEAR for your
alignment.
 
You can check by watching the piston come up to TDC on the compression stroke.
You should see the intake open just before, both closed when at TDC, and shortly thereafter
exhaust open.
 
 
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Hi Scott - Ok - when I went back out to look at the detail of the flywheel I found that my "new" flywheel had already sheared the new key.  That was suprising to me because the engine hasn't even ran yet, just the back-firing I mentioned above.  I did check the new flywheel vs. my old one and they are identical.  
 
So, then I thought the cam timing must be off.  I pulled off the sump cover and the dots are aligned.  And like you mentioned above it's not aligned to the crank key, just aligned to the little dot.
 
Something else must be wrong.  What could cause the new flywheel / key to shear immediately like it did?  I could accept if the timing was off that could cause the backfire / sheared key.  But, the timing dots are good - so??  
 
You mentioned about the coil -  I'm assuming it is correct because I haven't touched it.  Any other ideas - I'm wide open to check something else.  I appreciate your inputs..

That flywheel is probably supposed to be torqued to 100' lbs (I just had mine off).
https://outdoorpowerinfo.com/engine_specs/briggs_fly_torque.asp 
 
If it sheared that quickly, it likely wasn't tight enough. 
 
For the main cover, rear bolts (1/4-20), remove one of them.  Insert a longer 1/4-20 bolt.  This will line up perfectly with the flywheel starter teeth.
Gently snug down and then slowly apply your 100' lbs.   It won't break off the block, hurt the flywheel but may slightly bend the bolt-which will still come out... 
 
You may also try adjusting the valves this way.(likely not your problem):
When one is fully open, adjust the other (and vise versa).
 
Re the coil, the kill tab usually is closest to the block.   
 
Check and make sure you have spark at the plug, connect to the lead, ground the plug to the head.
Look for constant spark..
 
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Hi Scott!  Thanks for the advice on the flywheel torque.  Looking back I'm certain I did not have enough torque on that the first two times.  I took your advice and got it to 100 ft lbs.  That was successful and the engine ran great for about 5 minutes.  I moved the throttle up and down and the engine responded good.  I turned off the key and restarted it a few times.  All was good.  
 
I shut it off, let it sit for five minutes and went to start it again.  Now it won't start.  New battery is strong, it turns over good.  I tried some starter fluid and got it to fire, but it won't run.  I removed the spark plug and checked - the spark is good and constant.  When I turn the engine by hand it seems to have good compression.  I put in a new fuel filter and it has fuel in it so I'm assuming fuel is flowing fine.  I can't figure out what changed so fast that it started and ran good to now it won't start.  Again I'm at a spot I need something else to check...

First, pull the spark plug, hook up to the wire and ground to the head- We
need to know if we have spark....
 
If there is spark, will it light off when spraying some carb cleaner/starting fluid down the throat?
If so, we have a fueling issue.  
 
Now, I believe your engine's carb has a solenoid on the bottom of the carb.  
With the key on (12 volts applied), it should click internally.  There's a small needle
in there that opens and closes (turns off fuel inside the carb).  It's supposed to 
eliminate backfiring when powering down.  If there's no power to it (key on)- 
IT WON'T OPEN and your carb will NOT WORK.  They often stick (when sitting) closed.
You can remove the solenoid and grind off the protruding needle- It will not function anymore
AND will not turn off fuel anymore.  It won't hurt anything either.  Just idle down before turning
off the key and it generally won't back fire...
 
Start digging and post back!
 
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