Tecumseh LH195SP-67514D engine. I’m helping a neighbor who has a Troy-Bilt 24” 5.5HP snowblower. The oil and spark plug hasn’t been changed in a long time. I changed the oil, cleaned the carb, changed the spark plug and filled with new gas. It fired right up no issues and was running fine. I “thought” I was done until I tilted it back and it spewed oil like crazy out of the breather tube. It will constantly do it but only after tilting backwards. The kicker is that this wasn’t an issue prior or at least they deny it was. This can’t be normal as tipping a snowblower is a relatively common action when getting at some high snow in the northeast. Why is it doing it now? What should I be looking at? Is the engine toast? My capabilities don’t extend to engine rebuilding. I also don’t want to buy my neighbor a new snowblower. Thanks in advance.

I gather you re-checked the oil level after done?
 
Just a wild guess but that may be residual oil left in there if the machine was tipped over at some point).
I'd run it a bit more, tilting as you normally would and see if the excess stops..
 
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I made sure not to overfill. Oil level was within dipstick normal range. Once tilted it spews oil until uprighted. It seemingly does this until the oil is at the very bottom range, nearly empty

Being the way over due service engine might have excessive blow by. Might try slowly removing the dipstick with it running but it might be messy so be ready for that.
 
Another thing is there is a check valve of sorts and a filter under the cover the breather tube is in, might pay to remove that and see if everything looks good in there.
 
Just curious about how much oil did you put in?

I kept it in parameters of the dipstick. So what I’ve done is took off the head cover and breather box. I cleaned everything up which was very caked with carbon build up. Just waiting for the gaskets to come in to put it back together. A buddy of mine said to let it run at max for 20 minutes to possibly reseat the piston rings. This engine calls for 21oz of oil so I’ll be sure not to overfill. I’ll keep you updated. Thanks all.

I suspect the rings are caked up too causing the blow by..
 
Worse case scenario, re-ring the engine(while getting rid of the carbon around the rings/piston)
 
BTW, the original rings won't re-seat themselves. If re-ringing, a hone down the cylinder would be advisable...  Then a short break in period..
 
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Update: Well I managed to break down this entire engine. It was pretty clean inside, but never the less I ended up honing the cylinder, installed new rings, lapped the valves, checked/reset clearances, gaskets and an overall thorough cleaning. Oh, I also made the breather hole just ever so slightly bigger. I also replaced the carb. I used conventional oil for a break in period of 30 minutes and got some nice glittery oil. Compression was at 125PSI. I’m just trying to fine tune the RPMs now, but was unsure of the linkage. Specifically the top of the control arm with only two holes. No oil issues anymore. I dove deep into this head first, but feels good to do something I’ve never done before. Anyone have clarification on the exact linkage setup on this engine? Does it matter if it’s running normal RPMs whether it’s in one hole of the other?

As long as there was NO small tension spring around the linkage(rod) to the governor rod(likely was not), that second hole is just for fine tuning the maximum RPM's: 3,600.
 
Using a different hole should change the max RPMs.
 
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No just the linkage rod from the governor arm to the carb lever. The spring attached to the 3rd hole from the top on the bottom set. Thanks