I just replaced a blown governor on my 20 HP twin B&S engine and now I am in the process to adjust it and I am not quite sure how to understand the manual. My throttle is twofold. The first 80% of it is throttle and the last 20% of it pulls the choke. The manual says to turn the control swivel CCW to full throttle as far as it will go (see attached picture). Now does that mean the throttle portion ONLY ignoring the 20% of movement that is allocated to engage the choke or do I pull as far as it will go and that would include the portion pertaining to the choke????
 

What I am reading is that it's asking you to rotate the "Governor Control Swivel", not the throttle. Rotating it fully CCW is the position it would be in at wide open throttle.

Loosen the bolt/nut for the governor arm.
 
Hold the throttle (on the carb) to wide open throttle.  A third hand may help with that.
 
Now, the swivel that goes thru the block.  Turn it in the same direction (till it stops) 
it would as the arm would normally push it.
 
Lock down the bolt nut..
 
If you do it opposite *turning the shaft incorrect, all linkages won't move.
 
Look at the 28 minute mark on this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wn3eanGxSEA 
 
 
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Does the link to the actual choke have like an "elongated loop"
on one end and a short zig zag on the other (that would attach to the choke itself)?
 
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SRTsFZ6
Does the link to the actual choke have like an "elongated loop"
on one end and a short zig zag on the other (that would attach to the choke itself)?
 
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Yes, it does. The loopy end attaches to the choke and the zig zaggy end attaches to the link that is connected to the control swivel

Ok, the short ziggy zag part attaches to the carb choke plate (atop the carb)
 
That elongated part does NOT "attach" solidly to anything.
The elongated part SLIPS into the main bracket.  Then part of the 
main linkage has a tab that PUSHES on the elongated part of the linkage.
 
Any excess play (when activating the choke), the choke closes fully, the elongated 
part slips thru the bracket. 
 
As it might be hard to comprehend, attach the zig zag to the top of the choke plate.
You should see a slot in which the elongated part will fit into.  BTW, that elongated part
expands slightly, in that slot.   So that piece of linkage moves very, very little.. 
 
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Thanks Scott. I will double check the choke linkage according to your previous post and get back shortly. Btw, the video was very good and explains it all very well. Remember, some time ago I asked if my engine (406777-0442-B1) had compression release and everybody said Yes. This time when I replaced the blown governor gear (thank God, no internal damage was done) I looked at the cam shaft and what do you know??. It is a straight cam shaft, NO compression release. How about that? And all the parts manuals say that it is. Go figure. And I know it is from the factory. I am the only one that ever opened this engine.

Hummm, interesting. 
 
It's possible they made a change in models and yours "fell" into the group as Briggs ran out /changed parts..
 
 
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• Ok Scott. I was wrong. The wire link that goes to the choke does NOT have a loop. It has zig zags on both ends like Z. I have no problems understanding the adjustments between the governor shaft and lever. The confusion arises from the manual which indicates that the control swivel at WOT is also as far as it will go, which is incorrect. The throttle lever at the dashboard, when moved from idle to WOT, will stop at a notch or indent where it should be when mower is in operation. If you go beyond that notch you activate the choke for the purpose of starting the engine and that is all that position should be used for. Having said that let's go to pic #1. Choke lever (red star) and wire link. Pic #2 swivel plate in idle position (star pointing at 9 o'clock). Pic #3 control swivel at 80% of travel at WOT (arrow on swivel plate is at 7 o'clock). Pic #4 again control swivel at 80% at WOT at operating RPMs. Look at arrow on choke lever. Choke lever is connected to the swivel plate and is nearly horizontal - no choke. Last picture, control swivel at 100% travel, beyond WOT with choke pulled. Control swivel at 6 o'clock and choke lever at 10 o'clock. All of these adjustments look right on.
• I did some more testing came to the conclusion that it probably does not matter if the control swivel plate is pushed as far as it will go or only 80% of it, because the only connection it has to the governor lever is by its springs and I did not notice any movement of the springs at all between 80% or 100% rotation. What do you think?

So a single throttle cable, no separate second cable for the choke, correct?
 
So with that said, (and I think you also mean), the throttle pulled back is idle.
Pushed forward increases the speed, eventually to approx 3,600 RPMs (WOT).
 
Pushing forward beyond that activates the choke (and WOT remains), correct?
 
Now on the speed control lever (that you push from the riding position), you may feel 
a click or slight indentation.  IF there, that's the operating, WOT notch
(so you don't go past and run the machine on choke).
 
My 18 HP Briggs single (Zero turn), throttle lever has the same actuation,
but all my linkages at the engine is different from yours.
 
Of course you can adjust the cable at the engine.  
I'd push the throttle forward, to full choke-loosen and then set the cable adjustment
to get full choke.  Lock down the cable.  There's some give and take there, you just want to make sure your getting the full range of the throttle(and full choke).  
 
 
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