If not a pushing throttle, substitute pull ^^^.
 
Re reading your first post, adjust that cable ALL the way into full choke.
So the final adjustment, fully pushing the throttle gets you full choke, pulling back some,
 no choke, now at wide open throttle.  Pull back further gets you idle..
 
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So a single throttle cable, no separate second cable for the choke, correct? - YES
Pushing forward beyond that activates the choke (and WOT remains), correct? - YES
I think I may have overcomplicated this by getting stuck on the one line in the manual that claims that WOT and as far as it will go are the same, which they are not. Nothing in that assembly has been changed. The only thing I need to time is the relationship between the governor shaft and the lever and I did this the way the manual says, the control swivel plate is rotated as far as it will go which includes the portion of travel pertaining to the choke. Like I said, I don't think it makes a difference, so tomorrow I will start it up and see what happens
 

When the choke is activated, the throttle IS at wide open. 
 
So when you pull back off choke slowly, the engine goes to wide open throttle.
 
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Yes on both, Scott and when you look at it that way the manual is correct in its own confusing way. When the control swivel is as far as it will go the carburetor is still at WOT however with the choke engaged and that was the part that I questioned. Should the choke be included or not. I conclude: it doesn't matter, follow the manual, fire her up and see what happens. Great conversation! - Thanks y'all!
Rick

Post back how it goes..
 
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After a week and a half of freezing temps now we have nice weather again and for the last 3 days I am struggling to get my engine to run right. I started the engine and it ran fine but way too fast in idle  (2300-2800) even though the throttle control cable on the dash is all the way down in slow. I noticed that the throttle shaft is about 2 mm away from the throttle idle set screw and that is because the big governor spring is putting a light tension on the governor arm. I went ahead and made a slight adjustment to let up on the spring tension by bending the tang and now the idle speed is good. I proceeded to do the dynamic governor checking by using a tachometer and the RPM is between 1500-1600 idling and the throttle shaft is resting against the idle set screw. Then I went ahead and checked the WOT no load RPM which was between 3600-3700 rpm, which I understand is also good. So far so good, but NOT. When I move the throttle on the dash rather fast to WOT from idle the engine wants to die. It acts like I pulled the choke. Then I go quickly back to idle and the engine recovers and idles just fine. Now if I accelerate slowly, the engine will increase RPMs until it reaches WOT and runs great. The same scenarios happens if I engage the blades. But now when I put the mower in drive and start mowing the engine dies. So I went ahead and disconnected the wire link from the governor arm to the throttle shaft on the carburetor and ran the engine without the governor (in low RPMs) and everything works just fine when I manipulate the throttle manually. It responds quickly and runs good at all speeds like it's supposed to, so I know the problem is not with the carb and intakes. Now with the throttle link back installed I tried the same, manipulate the throttle manually overriding the input from the governor, same thing. Engine runs crappy and then dies. No matter if I push the throttle open or close it, the carburetor ignores it and stutters and dies. Does that make sense? And the governor shaft and arm are adjusted correctly according to my manual and conventional procedure and the 2 springs are in good order (not stretched or bent etc.)

False alarm. Disregard my previous long post. I figured out what my problem is or was besides being careless and stupid. The problems described in my previous post had nothing to do with the governor. I must admit having that much luck stumbling on something is usually not in my cards. The problem was in the carburetor after all. I am surprised that the engine ran at all or as well as it did. This morning I noticed a little thing the size of a pepper corn pushed over to the side on my work bench that looked like a jet. And I said to myself, well that is strange, where does that come from. And then it dawned on me, while replacing the governor gear I also dropped the fuel bowl on the carburetor to replace that little O ring on the inside, which will allow fuel to leak into the crankcase if defective. And sure enough while doing that and unnoticed by me one of the 2 main jets fell out. They are only held in place by their own little O rings and if that O ring loses its grip - main jet gone. Murphy usually is not that kind to me and who knows how long it would have taken me to figure out that it was the carburetor after all had i not stumbled on that little tiny main jet hanging out on my bench. By the end of the day I had that engine humming like the day it was first sold. Idle 1700 and WOT no load 3600, oh happy day!
Thanks y'all for your help. Job well done and finished

Upload of images is not working

Yep, it was sounding like two different issues on that long post.
 
Glad you found em and all is working well!!!
 
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