Hello,
I have a new Rato 740 (Predator 670 equivalent) with 10 hours on it. It was surging occasionally so I decided to remove the carburetor to clean it. When I put the carb back on I noticed the governor doesn't allow the throttle to return to the idle position (with engine off) unless I push it the rest of the way with my finger.
 
Any idea why this would happen? Am I missing a spring or something that pulls the governor back? Does the carb throttle spring not have enough tension to close itself? FWIW I dipped the carb in Chem-Dip for about 25 minutes.
 
I've attached a picture for reference. You can see the throttle is at maybe 40% or so and just stays there unless I "help" it go back all the way.
 
Thank you for your time and help!
 
- Brent

This has an inverter board controlled carb with stepper motor, it's running rough at high speed, running it with the carb motor disconnected is the same so it looks like it's not a fault in the electronics, I have cleaned the carb but it wasn't dirty, can anyone advise on where the high speed circuits are and how to get at them , I'll need to double check every circuit. 
 
The spark on this machine is very weak and it's not CDI , I have ordered a new coil , we'll see if it makes a difference. I can't find any specs for this engine but the valve clearances are ar 5 thou when I got it. 
 
https://toolshouse.co.uk/...b9chZLYj8aAjN7EALw_wcB
 
 
 
Also noticed the spark is very weak for a non CDI ignition and the underside of the cylinder head outside of the cooling air stream where the push rods are  is running at  80⁰C , I've not noticed this on other small engines. 

Hi All.
 
I bought a second-hand Honda last Fall. A 2015 HSS724. It ran perfectly last winter and I am very pleased with its performance.
 
Unfortunately I didn't follow correct procedure when storing it for summer and I have now got some issues that I am hoping some clever folk here may be able to help me with. I have obviously learnt the hard way and will be religious in how I maintain it from now on!
 
Before I did anything (2 days ago), I got the blower out of the shed and it started after a few pulls with the choke on.
Taking the choke off, it idled briefly and then stalled. This has essentially been the same ever since.
 
However, I have now removed the carburetor and sprayed it all through with cleaner. I removed the jet and the piece above it and made sure ALL holes were clear. There was no sign of sediment or gunk. I also removed the black plastic piece below and cleaned. The whole carburetor (my first to remove/clean) looked really great anyway.
 
I fired up the blower again, same issue.
 
I removed and replaced the spark plug which did actually have a lot of carbon build up (probably from me keeping the choke open recently in the hope it would get it going). Alas, the new plug has not helped.
 
I then drained the old gas as a friend mentioned it was probably bad gas. He said that if the engine was working with the choke open then there was most likely an issue there. New marked premium has also not helped. 
Is there an in line filter that might be gummed up that I can't see?
 
This is where I'm currently at and would appreciate any advice possible.
 
Many thanks

Simplicity Regent 12 witha 12.5hp Briggs 289707 1 cylinder 4 stroke running incredibly rough, smoking, stuttering. On lower power settings it will smooth out for about 3-5 seconds then die, on high power settings it stutters and runs extremely rough, never smooths out. Has an integrated choke/throttle lever.
 
Replaced fuel filter and spark plug (it is sparking I checked), new fuel, tried starter fluid, sprayed carb cleaner (but it didn't look dirty), completely removed air filter. I did my best to adjust the throttle/ choke cables and make sure they would fully open/ close the choke as the choke lever is pulled but the 30 year old manual doesn't detail this well. When hand turning the engine (via the cooling fan) it does seem to generate some pretty modest compression.
 
It did run 2 weeks ago just fine. Anyone have any suggestions?

I have a predator 8750 Peak 7000 running watt inverter generator. It is five months old and does have a couple hundred hours on it because we use it in inclement weather to charge off grid solar batteries.

I had it running a charger that uses about 3000W but I have since lowered it to 2000W and it can only run it for a short period of time until overloads. It has never tripped the circuit breaker. I just have to hit the AC reset or restart it to get it to work however, once it warms up and overloads, you have to wait for it to cool back down again or it will just overload immediately. It will also go into overload if you try and use anything that’s not a slow start item.

I was an equipment mechanic and I know the basics on how generators work, but I am definitely not an expert and I’m having trouble diagnosing it. The man inverter board located under the gas tank did not appear to have anything visibly burnt or any areas in the resin that had bubbled. What should I check next?

Good afternoon everyone!  I am new to this forum and very excited to be here.  I just purchased a Craftsman T2200K, 42" Tractor, Model # CM13APA9ZSA93.  I have the operator's manual as well as the owner's and service manual for the Kohler 20 HP V-Twin 7000 Series, Model # KT715, Engine. Does anyone have any suggestions for where I can locate a service/shop manual for this tractor (which I believe was built by MTD)?  I am not looking for a freebie and would be willing to purchase one, but I just can't find a site to buy one.  When I call MTD/Craftsman and explain what I am looking for, they always direct me to the operator's manual.  Thank you sincerely to everyone for any help or guidance you can give this newbie!

my 2010 Troy Bilt Bronco 13wx78ks011 , where my foot pedal has fallen forward with no tension and looks like my rear variable speed pulley next to trans pulley, keeps popping out of it's socket. i put the belts back on and I bought a #38 spring (for I'm guessing to put tension on the foot pedal) but don't know exactly where to hook BOTH ends of this spring. I do not know how to keep the variable pulley in it's socket as I don't see a bolt to tighten and guessing it wouldn't spin if screwed down. The brake assembly has a #38 spring hooked on it and connected to the chassis on the right side of mower. ( side when seated and with cutting deck controls). To the right of that brake assembly I have the the "drive foot pedal" assembly to move the mower/ There is a shiney part with jagged teeth and a round opening at the back corner I'm guessing to hook my new #38 spring like the Brake assembly has. Please correct me if that's wrong. I do not know where the other end of #38 spring attaches and also wondering if it attaches to one of the pulleys to change the tension on the belts to make the mower move. Thanks

I know a company that is selling the 2014 lawnmower. The lawnmower has only been used once then left outside for 10 years. They are taking silent bids for it. The battery is dead and tires are flat. They are selling as is so no starting it. What would be the problem with the engine and or the hydrostatic drive when sitting so long without being started? They want a minimum of $775. Is it worth taking the gamble?
 
Thank you