I recently acquired this lawnmower from my grandpa and he said it only needs a pulll rope and it will fire right up. It’s a craftsman mower (I will attach photos) With a Honda engine. Before I go out and buy a pool rope for this exact mower, I am hoping to test the motors capability before I dump money into a pole rope and find out that I need to buy another part for it. Anyways, I have an empty B snowblower pole rope that is the same dimensions as the one that will be for the craftsman. However the only problem is that I am having trouble aligning the pole rope mechanism with the underpar with the grabbers that actually start the engine. I was wondering if this would be a quick fix or if it’s better to just pawn it off and get a different mower. Any input is helpful as I know next time nothing about small engines and specifically lawn mowers. FYI this mower has run in the past.

I am working on a buddys mower. It is a Cub Cadet zero turn, model ZT1-42, manufactured in 2019. Initally the problem was that the pto would not engage. I tested the pto switch and it was fine. I then unplugged and tested the seat switch and both control arm switches and then plugged them back up. They all tested good. We needed to move the mower and now when you pull the control arms in, the mower dies. I unplugged the control arm safety switches and it will stay running when you pull the arms in to move. It will not however start with the switches unplugged as it shouldn't.
Second problem is that now when you pull the pto switch to engage the blades the mower will die. It was not doing this before I started checking things.
I checked and rechecked everything I unplugged and everything is plugged back up good and tight. I'm really scratching my head on this. Any suggestions?

Hello everyone I had to replace the oil sump on my toro 22 recycler. I replaced the oil sump the pan gasket and the crankshaft oil seal. I made sure the timing marks lined up reinstalled the governor and the oil sump goes on easy no problem. My problem is after I mount the engine back to the mower I can't pull the pull cord. I removed the spark plug still nothing. Any ideas of what might be causing this issue. I've removed and checked everything 3 times with the same outcome.

Last fall, I acquired an old Lawnboy 101662 mower, which I tuned up and stored to sell this spring. When I took it out of storage, the self propel was extremely weak and the spring on the cable was not decompressing. It was almost like the cable had stretched over the winter, because I know that the propel worked fine before. Any ideas? I would love to get this thing working and sold as soon as possible. It can't be the belt, because the spring on the end of the cable is not pulling enough to engage the gears.
Thanks, Lincoln

I put 10w 40 oil in my engine before reading the manual that read to use 10w30, but since I only use my pressure washer in the summer months, I am just wondering if that will be ok?
 

This generator runs a 110V grinder great, but not the 220V stuff. First I tried to run the 3hp radial arm saw, then a 220V air compressor. It wouldn't run either. My son has a Troybuilt 5500. It started to take the load of the radial arm saw, but tripped the power switch. It ran the compressor fine. I tested the voltage, the 220 outlet has 108V at one leg and 7V at the other leg. Same with the two 110V outlets. One outlet is 108V, the other is 7V. I can't find a manual, or any troubleshooting for this problem. I'm thinking it's not the alternator itself, but wires or switches carrying the power. Not sure how to get to the back side of the switches. Any help would be appreciated.

I’ve got a ‘1990ish’ Black&Decker Mod. 3640 generator that needs an idle control—any ideas on direction to go to find one?

Engine is combined with a Black & Decker generator: engine model number:190432 type:0855–01 code:77022210 —— is there any owner’s manual-type info available anywhere for the engine?