My Bunton BZT 2190 has 3 relays in a block under the seat. A few years ago, after starting the engine, as soon as I release the parking break, the engine died. Unable to find a readable schematic, I began to trouble shoot by just trying things. I discovered that by removing the center of those 3 relays, the problem goes away.
 
I know the relay itself is not bad. I can swap all of the relays to the other locations, everything still works, unless any of the relays is in the center position. I have been mowing with it like this for several years.
 
Just now, my son called, he has an identical mower with 500 less hours than mine. I have about 950 hours on mine. He suddenly has the same problem. I suggested he remove that relay to see what happens. Now his works.
 
Does anyone have an explanation what the real problem might be. The unreadable, to me anyway, diagram on this site shows this as a "delay relay", but I am not able figure what it actually does.
 
Thanks,
 
John

I have a Briggs & Stratton Model #124P02-0009-F1 that starts easy but has an issue with surging and establishing full pressure.  I disassembled the carburetor and cleaned, replaced the gas, etc. with no improvement.  When starting, the engine will surge.  I can reach around the gas tank and move the governor link forward and the rpms increase and full pressure is achieved and the engine runs smooth. I can power wash but as soon as I release the wand trigger the engine goes back to idle, pressing the wand trigger does nothing, and I have to repeat the process.  Any ideas?

I am replacing the crank case gasket on a Kawasaki FD661D-BS02 and need to
know the torque values for the bolts.  Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Leo

I am at my wits end. I cannot get the RPM on this Honda GCV160 to go down. I have adjusted the idle screw and the governor arm. I can't get it to reduce. Here's what I'm talking about 

All right I'm rebuilding an old mower that didn't run I reran the lines cleaned out the gas tank put a new carburetor on it and it started up but it stinks really bad could it just be maybe some spilled grease on the exhaust or clean out the cobwebs or I mean but it's stunk bad and it's kind of just smoking pretty good so I don't think it's just cobwebs ideas? It's a Kohler motor color courage I do know I'm going to have to take off the valve cover and put a new seal on it because it is leaking oil pretty bad I had to do that on a old Cub Cadet I had to other than that I really can't figure out what the smoking or smell is it's can't really identify it be honest with you and good smell like grease burning but why would it smoke that bad?

Hi all, I have a yard machines tiller I would like to get shifting properly. It doesn't have the model number plate. How can I identify?

Hi everyone!  I am new to the forums and joined primarily because I am having a heck of a time trying to get a DR Power Tow Behind mower I recently purchased (used) to start. I'm not super knowledgeable with small engines, so part of this repair job is trying to get more comfortable with the repair and diagnosing the issue to fix it...  Here is the breakdown:
 
Bought the user TB2 44" tow behind knowing it wasn't starting. I was under the impression it needed a battery and an air filter.
Once I got the thing home, I did the following:
 
1. Replaced Battery
2. Replaced Air Filter
3. Replaced Spark Plug
4. Added new fuel
5. Checked the fuses - both look great
6. Cleaned some of the electrical connections that looked a bit dirty or corroded.
 
Well, after those steps, I turn the key and I get nothing, not a sound. No starter or solenoid or any noise.  Just nothing.
 
We checked and the Solenoid and the Starter Motor are both receiving power.
 
I spoke with DR Power today and they noted that it could be the key/ignition assembly. I purchased one just to at least rule that out as being the issue.  They noted that even with a bad ignition assembly the power would be still be passing to the starter or solenoid. 
 
While I wait for the key ignition assembly to arrive, I took the current one apart and the plugs etc. looked ok. I went ahead and cleaned it up to ensure there was no corroding and applied some electrical cleaner to it. Not sure that it will do much if the issue is internal with the ignition assembly, but worth a try.
 
At this point I am mystified as to what else could possibly be causing, well, nothing to happen when the key is turned lol.
 
 My thoughts:
1. Possibly a faulty wire in the wiring harness? My next job is going to be to trace all the wires to see if any are not powered.
2. Starter is bad or locked up inside?  (I do think that this was stored outside for awhile)
3. Perhaps the  solenoid?  I think that this is probably a long shot though?
 
Any thoughts or ideas?
 
Thank you in advance!

I have a Quantum xm 12f802 - 1959- b
The governor spring has broken. When I go online the parts list shows 2 springs..does this engine have 2. There is only one on it but the mower has never run properly since I bought it 3rd hand so possibly there was 2