• Blog (p.3)

20+ year old Mitsubishi MEK 5800 generator needs help

Hi all,
Trying to get the above captioned generator back in service. I have had it running, but the carburetor needs work.....gummed up with ethanol!! In trying to remove the main jet I destroyed the brass at the screw slot, and had to use an extractor to remove it. Also, I broke off one of the fuel supply nipples. As this is pressed in, I'm thinking of trying the extractor again, or heating in the oven at about 350 to see if the aluminum body will expand enough to let me get the piece out.
In any event, I have tried for a few days to identify both carb and jet on line with no luck....the only numbers on the jet are "A27"....it is a Mikuni carb.
Any helpful advice appreciated,
Thanks

Craftsman Zero Turn Muffler Replacement

Good morning. I have a Craftsman Zero Turn with a Kohler Z6000 engine and I'm trying to replace the muffler, but I can't get a tool in to remove and replace the bolts that hold the exhaust pipes to the engine. Does anyone have any tips I can use? 
Thank you.

Briggs and Stratton surging

I have a Briggs and Stratton engine on my riding mower that surges at full throttle and does not run at any lower speed. It seems to be fine when the blades are engaged.  I've changed the carb, fuel filter, governor springs, fuel, and spark plug. Not sure what do do next.

Help Needed with 19 HP Intek Briggs & Stratton Engine – Compression Issue After 2 Rotation

Hey all, I am not a mechanic by any stretch, but I love to wrench on stuff and have found many solutions based on YouTube/message board guidance.  I’m working on a 19 HP Intek Briggs & Stratton engine (2012), and I’m completely stumped. The engine will turn over, but after about two rotations, it hits a point where it seems like the compression is too high and just locks up.
Here’s everything I’ve done so far:
  • Replaced the battery – no change.
  • Replaced the batter hot wire (it was a little melted) - no change.
  • Adjusted both valves to spec – still the same issue.  (they did still have the rocker tappets still on)
  • Pulled the engine, cracked the case and found what I expected, that the the compression release (cam detent) had broken off, so I replaced the cam with a new one, reassembled everything and to my utter frustration the problem persisted.
  • Removed the pulley and belts in case something external was binding – no effect.
  • Got desperate and swapped the starter solenoid – didn’t help.
  • Just to rule out a warped head or some other weird issue, I even swapped the head with another I had in the garage – still no change.At this point I have had the engine off the mower 3 times, the case apart 2 times and the head and OHV cover off more times than I can think of right now. 
    I can see the cam is working — the rockers have a slight twitch when the compression release should engage, so something is happening, but clearly not enough to relieve the pressure
    It cranks over just fine with the spark plug removed, so it really feels like a compression release issue.
    The cylinder walls look great, although I haven’t pulled the crank completely yet, but I’m starting to wonder if it could be slightly bent or if there's something else I’m totally missing.
    At this point, I’m about ready to set it on fire out of frustration. Any thoughts or advice would be sincerely appreciated. Thanks in advance!
  • Lawn Mower Primer Bulb

    Hi Everyone, 
    I have a question about my MTD lawn mower primer bulb. It leaks when i push it so its done. I can squeeze just enough gas through it to get the mower to start for a few seconds, then it dies. Am i correct in thinking that since the primer is broken, the mower loses fuel vacumn to keep it running? Also, the primer bulb is the larger round red type with a black housing and has "PRIMER 2.0" printed on it. The part number is 951-05177A for reference. This primer appears to be an upgrade from the 951-05177, with just "PRIMER" printed on it. So this was the main reason I posted, are the 2 different primers that I listed interchangeable or are they potentially different? The 2.0 version is difficult to source. Thanks

    Srongway chain hoist

    Hello, I need your help for a Strongway 1 ton chain hoist model 72642, I need to replace the Rotor but I can’t find that piece, in the diagram that part is #4 with the name Rotor, if anyone can help me I will be very appreciated

    Srongway chain hoist

    Hello, I need your help for a Strongway 1 ton chain hoist model 72642, I need to replace the Rotor but I can’t find that piece, in the diagram that part is #4 with the name Rotor, if anyone can help me I will be very appreciated

    Briggs 21 HP Single Cylinder. Bad rings?

    Just got this Craftsman mower for free. Nothing is free.....
    Engine: Model 331877, Type 1371 B1, Code 100405ZD
    Started right up after I cleaned the totally fouled plug.
    Burns oil blue smoke.
    Has 60 psi compression.
    But runs pretty well.
    Just wanted to get a second opinion that there's no way this is a valve seal oil leak.
    The cylinder looks great except for that stain (see photo) where I think some dirty oil sat for a couple years. It's a horizontal cylinder so that is where any fluid would pool. The stain feels as smooth as the rest of the cylinder.
    Spark plug and intake valve all oil crusted. (see photo).
    Would an intake valve have this much crusted on on the top side of the valve if it was an oil leak through the rings?
    I don't see oil leaking down the valve stem.
    Also it blows a lot out of the dip stick hole.
    Exhaust valve stem is flat black and dry. (That photo won't load)
     
    Ok, it's obviously bad rings, but I'm still open to somebody else saying Duh!
     
    If I replace the rings, do I need to clean up that stain even if you can't feel it there?
     
    Thanks
    :)
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