What's your go-to method to handle snow?

If you have a question about your equipment, post a new thread in the Repair Q & A forum.

I have a model 135292 engine that threw a connecting rod. The governor spring was not working right and the engine over-revved. The rod made a crack in the side of the block when it broke. I checked so see if the piston still moves, and it does. They don't make this model engine anymore, so I would like to try to salvage it. It's from a rototiller, and has has two driveshafts, one of which is for the reverse gear.  I could use some experienced advice on whether the crack could be repaired with JB weld, and also what is involved in replacing the connecting rod. 

I bought a non running generator with a briggs 19E412 0131-01 engine-no spark with sensor plugged in, unplug it spark galore.  Put new sensor in, along with light, and wiring-it all came with kit-filled oil to proper level, and still no spark when plugged in...new on/off switch-old one was broke-works fine.  wanted to flip it for a little extra $$, but sure couldn't with low oil sensor not working.  Any ideas I might have missed?

Do the self propelled transmission come with gear oil in gearbox

Hi,
I have a 19hp intek motor in my craftsmanT1600 mower, I had a failure of the magnets on the flywheel so I bought a new one on eBay, I also installed a new coil and stator and spark plug, I have a good spark at the spark plug but I cannot get the engine to pop or fire even with starting fluid, I even checked the fuse under the battery which was good, it cranks and cranks with no fire at all, any ideas as to why it won’t start?

Thanks,
Dave

I took the carburetor off the tank to clean the carburetor and change the diaphragm and gasket with hopes to stop it from shutting down soon after starting it.  I noticed the gasket was against the tank and then the diaphragm and then the carburetor. My question is, is that correct? I googled for the answer and got 2 different answers. So I ask the kind folks of this forum. Do I lay the gasket down first, then the diaphragm and then screw down the carburetor?  Thank ya'll for your time.
 
oletrkguy in SC

Hello all.  Hoping you can help me.
 
2013 Ferris mower with 28HP briggs and stratton Commercial turf v twin engine. 191 hours. 49L977 0125-G5.
 
I completed mowing 1.5 acres. Disengaged the mower deck and came back around the house and proceeded down the hill.  Heard a loud PING and then rough idle. I quickly shut it down and simultaneously verified the deck was off.  Yes. It was. It sounded like I hit something the ping was so loud. Hubby came around from back, he heard the ping.  He was able to restart it and drive it into the barn. It ran really really rough.
 
Thinking I blew a rod he removed the valve covers and all is in tact on both cylinders and manual rotationofthe flywheel shows the rockers operatinging smoothly.
 
Testing began.
1.  Remove cylinder 1 plug.  Fired it up.  Cylinder 2 is running.
2. Removed cylinder 2 plug. It turns over only like it's getting fuel but no spark. Cylinder 1 is not running.
3.Test cylinder 1 plug for spark.  No spark
4. Remove some stuff to get to the ignition coils. 
5. Remove cylinder 1 coil and ohm tested OK. For giggles and kicks we installed it in cylinder 2 and it fired up.  We took known good coil from cylinder 2 and put it in cylinder 1-no spark. End Result: both coils good.
6. Reinstall coils and  disconnect cylinder 1 kill wire.  Check for spark. Yes.
7. Recheck for spark with kill switch plugged in.   Yes spark.
 
Now I am at a loss with respect to a flow chart of testing.
 
I need help please on where to focus my efforts.
 
Many many thanks in advance
Elizabeth