I have a strange problem with my Predator 9000. I have an electric start on it. The electric start works fine and the generator runs and puts out the correct AC voltage. The problem I am having with it is on the 12v circuit for the starter. When the unit is running it is producing 25 volts to the white wire connected to the starter solenoid which has the positive cable coming from the battery. The white wire has 25 volts and is cooking the battery. When I disconnect the wire the starter relay will not engage but if I touch the wire to it it will. I know that this wire has to be connected in order for the starter to work. The thing I am having trouble with is where is this extra voltage coming from?


I have no problem with the AVR, Harbor Fright sent me a new one and after installing and adjusting it, it still producing 25 volts on the starter circuit. I have checked the rectifier and I have 12 volts DC for the 12volt plug. As far as I can tell there is only one rectifier on this unit. I do have a module that has a plug end on it and wires from it connect to the on/off/ start switch. The only markings on it are JB-DDQ. My manual says that it is a controller. The white wire from the starter relay is also connected to this plug end that goes to the module. 


I’m going nuts trying to figure where the 25 volts are being produced and back feeding the battery and cooking it. Has anyone heard of this problem or does anybody know where the problem is coming from.
Also, does anybody know what the module labeled JB-DDQ is or where I can get one? My wiring schematic says that there is two rectifiers on it and I am starting to wonder if this is the second rectifier. 

Any help in getting to the bottom of this would be appreciate.

Is it normal for the bottom end vent coming into the airbox to spit oil into the airbox??

Looking for experienced opinions...  These pics are of the inside and outside of my air filter and pre filter.  I know it's fairly dusty and in need of a compressed air blow-out.  But with dusty air filters being a result of normal use, it means it's doing its job, am I right?  Give me your honest opinion, does it look bad enough to restrict airflow enough to cause an engine to overheat and seize the piston and rings?  Does it also show any signs of allowing debris ingestion into the engine top end?  I appreciate any opinion from experience.  
 
 

Stepper motor was replaced Jan 2023. Recently unit stopped working. Starts fine but increases frequency output limit of 72hz and shuts down with solid red light. I suspected stepper motor failure so replaced it today.

I replaced the stepper motor because I could not observe it moving during startup. The throttle is already at zero though and the unit cranks and runs like that. But frequency output rapidly rises past 65hz and eventually triggers an overspeed shutdown when it reaches 72hz. I don't suspect I have a bad stepper motor because I had one replaced two years ago and I just replaced that one today with brand new. Both cases, the stepper motor does not appear to move at startup but I'm guessing that's normal? The unit is already at zero throttle and is outputting over the nominal frequency output of 61-63 no load output without any throttle. Then it climbs past 65hz output on the meter and ultimately shuts down after less than a minute of total runtime (overspeed shutoff is internally set to 72hz) Any help much appreciated.

What to check? 

I have a Troy-Bilt/Briggs Stratton 3250/3500 generator – model # 030378 Serial # 1015494054. I believe the engine is a B&S Series 900, but the only visible markings (without removing engine from the frame) is a sticker affixed to the underside of the engine. The sticker has two barcodes. The top one looks similar to a 12-digit UPC: 1210120116B8 - (Notice a B not a 3 nor an 8)
The lower is 13 digits:  0711918813216
This is not a normal 030378 as it does not have the normal air filter. Instead, it has some sort of a plastic plenum (intake resonator?) attached to the carburetor. This looks to be Briggs manufacture part  - It has the crank case vent, but I am not sure about this.  I would like to identify the specific engine as the plastic choke arm is broken off behind this plenum and is a bit hard to reach – I found especially so on cold, dark, snowy nights.
This generator is only used for power outages. If this ‘plenum’ is not supposed to be there should I find parts to go back to normal or go by the “If it aint broke don’t fix it”.
So, help on engine ID and/or how fix choke arm along with filter suggestions.  Will see if I can attach photo.

Pardon the long post. Drove the tractor into the shop. Smoking bad. Rings? Valve guide seals? head gasket? failed breather?
Took it apart. Cylinder bores measure 2.9693. New bores spec at 2.969/2.970. Didn't think I needed to check the rings. Replaced the head gaskets and valve guide seals. Re and Re the breather and checked its operation. Bolted everything back together and set the valve lash. The engine would not start. Good spark on both cylinders. Compression measures 105 and 118 psi. I can hear the fuel cutoff solenoid clicking on turn on. Plugs come out wet after trying to start. Will not even respond to starting fluid. Does anyone have an idea where I can go with this ?
Update : The tractor will run if you pour a lot of gasoline into the carburetor. The carb is almost new. The float bowl is full. The anti after-fire valve is working correctly. The inside of the carburetor is immaculate and the passages are clear (jets, emulsion tube, etc.). It won't start or continue to run even on full choke so I am still flummoxed. Any suggestions are appreciated.

1998 AYP Wizard 19hp 8196A89, no crank no start. pm recently complete. new starter and carb. will not crank or start when turning key. inspected all wires nothing damaged or broken. unsure if neutral safety switch or start switch is bad anyway help would be greatly appreciated thanks.

- Got out our leaf vacuum a week ago to start picking up all the leaves that have come down.
- On first try, engine fired and then died. Further cranking, shots of starting fluid, etc. and the engine did not fire. 
- Kept checking things and determined there was no spark. 
 
Disassembled things with these actions/results:
- Flywheel magnet passes the 3/4" screwdriver attraction test.
- Tried a new Chinese ignition coil.
Still no spark.
 
- Ordered and installed a new Tecumseh 34443 ignition coil. Left the coil kill switch wire off the coil. Set the coil air gap to the 0.0125" spec.
- Installed new NGK BR7ES spark plug
Still no spark.
 
- Reduced the coil air gap to 0.008" to increase magnetic coupling.
Still no spark.
 
- Tried another new BR7ES plug.
Still no spark.
 
- Put a 3/4" socket into my impact driver to spin the engine over faster and (?) increase the ignition voltage.
Still no spark.
 
- Replaced spark plug with adjustable-gap type spark tester, grounded directly to the engine frame. 
Still no spark.
 
What am I missing? What do I do to get this engine running? Right now the test setup is a coil, the flywheel, and a spark plug. What elsedo I do?